• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Wedge TR8 Intake System Conversion

Share this page

MrBlueSky

MrBlueSky

Senior Member
Offline
To make a long story short....I hate it, but 25 years with the Strombergs is enough and now I'm done...
I have both the Holley 390 and the Edelbrock 500 but after some research and past experiences I'll be going with the Edelbrock, it's a little more user friendly. My question is that I have an original Buick 4bbl aluminum intake, has anyone used these on their 8 vs. the Edelbrock? If you don't know what one looks like they resemble the Offenhauser version. I'm no engineer but with it's low profile and it's short fat runners it should give some good low torque and hp compaired to the long skinny runners of the Edelbrock which I assume is better for top end hp.
Has anyone had experience with both?
Is it worth it?
Is there some design flaw with the GM manifold that I'm not aware of?
Thanks Guys...
 
The Edelbrock is the better all around manifold. You can get a new one from Summit for around $240. If you have the Buick one in hand, then just use that one. You won't notice much difference until you start throwing money at bigger displacement, bigger cam, headers, head porting, etc. The 500 will run rich on a 3.5. It will work, but the exhaust will stink pretty bad. The Buick manifold is a popular choice for the MGB V8 guys because of it's lower profile. Many times I have said I wanted to keep a certain TR8 stock, but after working on the engine with stuff completely covering it, I have given in each and every time.(10 TR8s and 3 SD1s) I always end up swapping in a 4 barrel, and headers. I just put and Offy and 390 on my wife's TR8. She doesn't care how fast the car is, I just got tired of dealing with all of that clutter and poor access.
 
Stock buick manifold and holly 390 are a good combination for that engine. Holly's are easy to work on and parts are plentiful for them.
 
Hopefully someday I will agree with that FI statement, but this megasquirted 4.0 turbo project is getting the better of me. At least it will be a heck of a lot cheaper and should run better than the traditional stroker motor, big cam, ported heads, 4 barrel carb route for getting big HP.
 
I have yet to see a good dependable power building "DRIVEABLE" Fuel injection system unless you manage to get ALL the bits from a 4.0 or 4.6 liter Rover V8 and use it but that system is limited too. Even Tim Lanocha’s Fuel Injection system is not a turnkey no touch system. He still has to fiddle with it for 10 to 15 minutes on a cold start. The 4 barrel for the cost and fun can’t be touched! Even stock fuel injected car will at some point have a "lucas" moment and the its anyones guess where to start!
 
You can't compare Tim's over the top motor with a decent drivable version, Mike.
That is basically a drag motor. You don't think those guys with the FI drag motors don't fiddle all the time.
I get in mine it starts right up and idles nice and smooth.

Well, mine is not really a stock FI motor either.
More to the Todd version. Keep at it Todd. It ill be easier to drive and tune

No disrespect Mike
 
I had a Holley 390 on my TR8 when I bought it, I never even came close to being able to get it running right after it had sat for 4 years so I sold it on E bay, made enought to buy and eldebrock, and had money left over. It has proven to be a good choice as an amateur mechanic such as myself as it has been trouble free for 8 years. Just my experience
 
I like my HIF6 SU carbs. Very simple to maintain.
 
My TR8 has the Holley that Mickey installed when he rebuilt the engine. It starts and runs a lot better cold than my TR6, in that I can hit the throttle once, start it, let it idle for about 20 seconds hit it again and take off. The TR6 needs a good one minute or more warm up before moving out, depending on how cold it is. I will be adding the triple ZS choke cable and that may help a bit, but that Holley when setup properly with an electric choke is very hard to beat, IMHO.

No experience with any FI to compare though. I just like the Holley.
 
TBI that 6 Paul, your cold starts a thing of the past.Ask Bobby
 
Thanks....
I'm going to try the Edelbrock first and if it runs rich or if I have other problems I'll switch it out with the Holley. I was going to sell it but I better hang on to it. I think I'm going to stay with the manifold I have now, I think it will work good for the mild upgrade I'm going for,I'll switch it for the Elelbrock if somone chimes in with a good reason or if I do some other upgrades. I am ready for the extra hp and dependability.
 
what are you guys doing with the high speed fan switch? If I can't get it machined into the manifold I was thinking about somehow spliceing it into the top waterhose with a welded nut on a pipe.
 
What typically happens with the fan sensor on the intake is it is bypassed (wires hooked together) or if you take the time get the intake tapped for the sensor. It is an odd thread but if you have a good machiune shop it can be done. I have a tap from about 15 years ago for the sensor. I can see what size and TPI it is.
 
MrBlueSky said:
what are you guys doing with the high speed fan switch? If I can't get it machined into the manifold I was thinking about somehow spliceing it into the top waterhose with a welded nut on a pipe.
Click to expand...

When I relocated mine, I bought a spare t-stat housing and had it tapped on top. Don't have a picture of it here, but new owner, Paul (Brosky), might be swayed to post one.

Mickey
 
There is also a dual switch for the one on the side of the rad . Think it comes from a Volvo or Saab.
 
Dual switch....that would make it too simple. There is a British car junkyard here in town that also has Volvo/Jag/Yugo, I'll give him a ring to see if he has any idea of a dual switch.
I want to keep this switch operational, living here in the deep south I need that high speed fan.
 
Michael....Please let me know the size of that tap just in case I have to machine that intake....thanks
 
See if this helps

Here is the Saab sensor information I provided to Odd a few years back.
Included is both cut-in and cut-off temperatures for a variety of years.
These are dual range sensors. Pick your ranges.

***************************

Saab 9000 Sensors, which will screw right into a TR8 threaded bung:

Cut in temperatures
Speed 1
1985 to 1988 92C 198F
1989 to 1994 90C 194F
1995 100C 212F

Speed 2
1989 to 1991 110C 230F
1992 to 1994 106C 223F
1995 111C 232F

Cut out temperatures
Speed 1
1985 to 1988 88C 190F
1989 to 1994 86C 187F
1995 96C 205F

Speed 2
1989 to 1991 106C 223F
1992 to 1994 102C 216F
1995 107C 225F

*********************
 
OK - devil's advocate here: What would be the point in having a dual temp switch on the radiator? I would want the high temp to kick in from a signal closer to the source of the heat.

Tag - you're it!
 
Back
Top