• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Wedge TR8 Brakes

RSMTR8

Jedi Trainee
Offline
As everyone knows, the brakes on the 8 are terrible/mushy! Is there any way to make some improvement at all? I was driving my 8 yesterday, and I gotta tell you, if I ever need to stop FAST!, I might be in trouble although I drive the car very conservative. Thanks!



Rod
 
Rod,

Check to see if there are any leaks in the master cylinder, calipers, wheel cylinders, or lines. Flush the entire system and replace fluid with Castrol SRF high temp fluid, replace flexible lines with steel braided lines and replace front pads with Ceramic composite pads.
 
Master cylinder is new. And I am not loosing any brake fluid. Flexible line are still there, not sure sure what brake fluid is being used.

Thanks!
 
I bled the brakes last weekend with a Gunson pressure bleed and it made a huge difference. Maybe I just got lucky...

Have you replaced all the brake fluid?
 
What brake fluid are you using?
 
I am using Castrol SRF in my Aprilia RSV1000, 76 930 and all previous vehicles. If you drive really hard and brake hard the Castrol will really shine but If you drive conservatively, DOT 3-4 will suffice but like any brake fluid, change it once a year. By design, brake fluid absorbs moisture, so it can't be used indefinitely without problems. Everyone knows to change their engine oil every 3000 miles(conventional oil) but almost no one thinks about changing brake fluid.
 
Ted at TSI offers a brake upgrade with the portioning valve I beleive. I put it in and it eliminated most of the nose dive. NOT too expensive and helped with the auto crossing...
 
Can the portioning valve be installed without upgraded brakes? I do not autocross or race the car at all, just a cruiser.



Thanks!


Rod
 
no changes need to the brakes are needed,I suggest giving Ted a call. If you need a number let me know.....
 
How is difficult is the install on the valve?



Thanks!
 
RSMTR8 said:
How is difficult is the install on the valve?



Thanks!

Its actually very easy and worthwhile even if you don't race or autocross. The proportioning valve is on the back side of the drivers side strut turret. It is a simple remove and replace. This would also be the right time to change the brake fluid as you'll be opening the system and need to bleed the brakes anyway. I put stainless flex lines on the car (front and rear) at the same time. I did notice much more effective braking under normal situations.

There is also an 'anti-dive' kit that changes the geometry of the front roll bar (which locates the front lower control arms) that also eliminates any remaining dive.

The real upgrade is to go to larger calipers and rotors but that would also mean changing to larger wheels to accommodate them. Though with the increasing difficulty of finding 13" tires, that may become necessary at some point no matter how much you might want to keep it appearing stock. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
 
Woody has a new bigger brake kit, 4 caliper I beleive, he is selling on his web page. not cheap but might be my next major investment. You have to have 14 inch or larger rims. I wish I had gone with 15 inch rims for a better choice in tire sizes adn makes.
 
Is the Castrol SRF a synthetic?


Thanks!
 
How about brake pads, what do you reccomend?


Thanks!
 
Back
Top