Wedge TR8 A/C Hose Fitting thread sizes at Condenser?

[Brosky]

Does anyone know what the exact size of the threads are on the hoses that go to the A/C condenser on the TR8?

 

[DNK]

Have a condenser in my attic storage if you need a measurement

 

[Brosky]

I do Don, if you could get me the thread sizes into the lines and for on to the core (one in the same). I want to pull my condenser, as I never use the A/C and see if that helps it to run cooler. I have no over heating problems per se, but I don't like how it can get up to 3/4 in really hot weather and traffic. I want to plug the hoses and cap the core to keep them sealed for when I put it back after this experiment.

I'm just paranoid after what happened last fall and want to keep things as cool as possible. It will also give me a chance to have the core cleaned out and make sure there in no blockage of air in it to the radiator.

 

[tr8todd]

Paul, you can't trust the gauge. The needle can spin on the shaft and give false readings. You need an independent way of measuring the water temp, then adjust the needle position to the proper spot on the shaft.

 

[Brosky]

Todd, the gauge seems to be recording properly. I used two different digital thermometers and came up with the same readings, which correspond to the articles written in the past about the different temps at the gauge bar marks. Such at 223-225 at the 3/4 and that is where it goes in hot weather when stuck in traffic.

If it is possible, I would like to get that down as I have a new aluminum radiator along with the nice big Maradyne fan and I just want to see if the condenser is blocked in any way and if it makes a real difference not being in there.

Do you have any spare condensers or hoses that you could measure for me so that I can get some plugs to fit them? I don't want any moisture getting into the system until I see what happens and if I decide to put the condenser back in.

 

[TR3driver]

You do realize that just opening the system to air (that moment between removing the hose and installing the plug) is going to admit both air and the moisture it carries, right? No matter what, you'll need to evacuate before recharging.

Don't know if the TR8 would be the same, but the Stag condenser uses standard size flare fittings. Since the inlet and outlet were different sizes, I just bought one of each size at Home Depot and used the ones that fit.

 

[Brosky]

Yes Randall, I am aware of the need to evacuate fully and recharge, but I want to keep the hoses and condenser sealed up while they are on the car and in storage. No sense adding anymore moisture in then necessary.

I don't even know the sizes to start with and I'm just trying to get all of the parts ready so when I go to my buddies shop with a lift, I can be in and out quickly, with no need to go back under the car for a while.

 

[DNK]

Sorry Paul, I just read your request at 12:50 AM and I have to catch a plane at 6:00 AM.
No time for the attic trip

 

[DanB]

They weren't any size the hose shop had when I had new hoses made for the Sanden compressor I used to replace the York on my TR7. They had to use my old fittings.

Dan B.

 

[Brosky]

I just got back from the shop and don't need the sizes any longer. Took the condenser and the hoses off, blocked the outlet on the compressor and got everything plugged back up for storage. There must have been a leak in the system, as there was no refrigerant charge to worry about getting into the atmosphere, so I'll be having the condenser and hoses checked well at an A/C shop if I ever decide to put it back in.

 

[tr8todd]

The TR8 radiators that fit behind the AC condensers are thinner than the non AC rads, so if you continue to have issues, you could go to the thicker core radiator. I use 26X16X3 aluminum rads from Summit($179) with pusher fans and an adjustable fan switch, and have never had any issues. Make sure your fans are spinning the correct direction based on which side of the rad you have them on. Lorenze's car had overheating issues when he bought it. The problem ended up being that the fan was wired as a pusher and it was mounted as a puller.

 

[Brosky]

Thanks for the tips Todd. I ran it today and yesterday in all of this summer heat and it stays at 1/2 in all of my normal driving, until I get into really heavy and hot, bumper to bumper traffic, or when I let it idle in my driveway for 15 minutes in the 90 degree baking sun. It will then go to 3/4, but will come down once you get it moving on an open road. Before it would simply stay at 3/4 and that was it no matter if I got on a highway at 75 mph.

I will check the fan to make sure it is pulling, as it is mounted on the back of the radiator (engine compartment)and I never even gave that a thought. I am pretty sure that it works as it should, but it never hurts to check.

My Wizard radiator in the TR6 is much thicker and that one stays at 1/2 no matter how hot it gets.

 

[tr8todd]

I ran my grey car the other day in the driveway when it was 95 plus trying to get my fan switch adjusted. At first it was set to go to 1/2 and then the fans would kick on. I felt that the fans were continuing to run too long after the car was shut off, and could possibly leave me with a dead battery somewhere. I spun the adjuster screw so that the fan now kicks on just under 3/4 and shuts off at 1/2. Now when I shut the car off, it only runs a minute or less before shutting down. I suppose I could wire it so that it only runs when the key is turned, or just throw the disconnect switch in the trunk when I stop on hot days. Even on a 95 degree day, it took almost 15 minutes from a cold start to get up to 3/4. The fans kicked on for less than a minute to bring the temp back to 1/2 the fans would shut off. Then several more minutes of running to get back to 3/4 and the cycle would repeat. Then I adjusted the idle up to 2K just to see if it would still keep the temps in it's happy range, and all went well.

 

[Brosky]

The fan is wired correctly as a puller and it moves a LOT of air, so that is not the problem. It comes on at 1/2 and will keep it there, unless I let it idle for 15 minutes or more, at which it slowly goes to 3/4 and that's where it stays, even for another 20-30 minutes of idling. It won't come back down unless I drive the car onto a cooler spot (like on back roads that are shady) and move more cool air across the front end.

It was like this with the original radiator and the original Boxer fans and it's like this now. It is better than before, as it take a lot longer to get to 3/4, but it seems that it's just the way this car is. It's probably normal with most owners, but these kind of things just bug me. Probably in cooler weather, it will be just fine.

 

[tr8todd]

It shouldn't continue to climb with the fans on, nor should the fan have to stay on for more than a few minutes to bring the temp back down. You can borrow my rad and fan if you want to try it out. I need to make up another just like mine for one of Charlie's cars. I also have the prototype 3" one in my race car that our buddy's product is based on. You can borrow that one if you like as well. Just give me a days notice or so to pull either of them from the car.

 

[Brosky]

Todd, thanks very much for the offer. I want to play with this a few more days before I take anything else apart. I have not verified the exact "fan on" temp yet, or the time to go down after going up at idle, but I think that it stays at the 3/4 with the fan running, no matter how long. To be sure, I will verify and post back. I was trying a bunch of different things as far as driving scenarios the other day and want to be factually correct before deciding what to do from here. I think that I've stated the events correctly, but want to be sure about the coming down ability, or lack thereof.

 

[tr8todd]

Paul, is the fan doing a good job of pulling the air thru the rad, or is most of the air coming in around the fan cage? Maybe a nice shroud would help. Maybe go to a pusher. What are you running for a tstat? It would be nice to have an infra red temp gun to see what your exhaust gas temps are, and also to see what the temps of the coolant are going in and out of the rad. It's going to come down to either your engine is making more heat than it should, or your rad fan set up isn't disapating the heat well enough to keep up. Most likely a bunch of little things adding up.

 

[Brosky]

Todd, I have a temp gun, so those questions can be answered next week when I have some time to run it and do some testing. The thermostat is a 160 (I think) and the possibility of going to a pusher is better now with the condenser out of there.

Ideally a fan shroud would be nice. The TR6's have them and they funnel all of the air directly into the radiator, so I was surprised that the TR8 didn't have something similar when I first looked under there. I may also fashion the air dam to fit back under the front end, with the ends cut off to accommodate the new fiberglass front end. That will help push air up there while I'm running, but will not help the idle situation much.

When I had the car at NE Dyno for the last (and first) runs, he said the the exhaust gas temps were OK along with the A/F ratio and the timing was right on the money. It never got above 1/2 on all of the dyno runs, but we were jamming air down the front grille with his industrial floor fans.

Like you said, probably a lot of little things, so it's time to pick them off, one by one.

 

[Darrell_Walker]

The thermostat is a 160 (I think) and the possibility of going to a pusher is better now with the condenser out of there.

Hi Paul,

Why do you run such a cool thermostat? 190 is the factory spec.

-Darrell

 

[DNK]

Yours is FI ,his is old technology