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Wedge TR7 Water Pump - Up-date

Izual Angel

Jedi Trainee
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TR7 Water Pump - Update

After soaking them liberally in Liquid Wrench the impellers finally came off. Now the trouble is this. How in the bloody heck does that metal thing above the bearing come off? Everytime I try to pry it up the shaft it distorts.

Another thing, One of the shafts has a chip in the drive gear. Not a big chip, but it's there. Would it be a good idea to just junk that one?
 
Re: TR7 Water Pump - Update

The shaft with the chipped drive gear, throw it away.

As for getting the "metal thing" up the shaft, don't pry on it to much, but its not a disaster if it gets a little bent. Its called a "water thrower" or "water slinger" in most manuals. Its job is to "throw" the water out of the sides of the pump if any leaks past the graphite seal at the impeller.

Get some very fine emery cloth and clean up the shouldered part of the shaft just above it, so once you get it moving, it will come the rest of the way freely.
I got mine off by circling the outside of the "water thrower" with my thumb and index finger, I had gloves on. Then I gripped the drive gear end with my other hand and rotated them relative to eachother while pulling my hands apart. Just kinda wiggle back and forth with the rotations while pulling, it will come off.

If you bend it a little, don't mess with it to much untill you put it all back together. Once you have the pump assembled, you can "adjust" it so it doesn't hit the cage of the pump.

Also, when you get it all back together, and the car reassembled, the pump WILL leak a little out the hole in the block, don't panic, the new graphite seal and the bottom of the impeller take a while to seat together properly. If its still leaking out of the hole in the side of the block after an hour of operation or so, you may have a problem.
 
Re: TR7 Water Pump - Update

Mark - I thought of spinning it around the shaft to move it up, but it's almost seized. My guess was this engine sat many many years before I got my mitts on it. Any suggestions on how to get it moving?
 
Re: TR7 Water Pump - Update

Well, it sits down on a shouldered area on the shaft, and probably corroded in place a bit. If you have a torch, propane will do, try heating the ring and working it off like I described. Once you break it free, you should be able to work it off the shaft. The key is to use even force so you don't bend it to badly.

I bent mine a little, but was able to get it straigtened out enough that it didn't rub the brass cage of the pump.

The water pump is such a pain to deal with on the TR7 engine that I have decided to cough up the $300 or so for a brand new one when I do my Sprint engine build, heh.
 
Re: TR7 Water Pump - Update

IA,

The pump I am sending you (will ship Monday) has a free and non distorted slinger, you can just use that one. It also has a brand new bearing, and new seals. I rebuilt it last summer, drove the car about ten miles and the timing gear pin on the jackshaft sheered and and had to have the car towed home. After disassembling the whole *&%@ thing again, found that mine also had the chipped drive gear as well and I whined and spent the $300.00 for a new one. I have seen some on Ebay for much less since then.

Steve
 
Re: TR7 Water Pump - Update

Before you fit any new water pump, get the gear on the pump shaft hardness checked to make sure it is not one of the "soft" gears. A good machine shop should tell you if the gear is hadrdened, and Rockwell test it for $5. It could save you a new engine rebuild later on.
Also, make sure you replace the bush bearing inside the block that holds the bottom of the pump shaft.
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