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Ok, be gentle, but having grown up in an extremely frugal household, I have to ask the question. TR7 head is coming back from the machine shop on Monday and am told it came out fine. Someone said (sorry didn't look back to check who) only put it back together with ARP studs. Found out what ARP studs were and that the set would run as much as having the head machined and line bored. The question, as I just got my metal lathe back together and operational, why not buy grade 8 bolts and machine some studs?
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Wedge tr7 studs
- Thread starter SSS
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Hello SSS,
I would inspect your existing studs and bolts and re use if seviceable. If not I would look for replacements from your Triumph spares specialist. They are only tightened to 60 ftlbs which is not a high torque.
There is a reason why you cannot machine standard bolts as the plain section is too small a diameter to get a full thread. The bolts are made by rolling the thread form and if the blank were full size the rolled thread would be too large in diameter.
Alec
I would inspect your existing studs and bolts and re use if seviceable. If not I would look for replacements from your Triumph spares specialist. They are only tightened to 60 ftlbs which is not a high torque.
There is a reason why you cannot machine standard bolts as the plain section is too small a diameter to get a full thread. The bolts are made by rolling the thread form and if the blank were full size the rolled thread would be too large in diameter.
Alec
>>>that the set would run as much as having the head machined and line bored.
Either you have the world's cheapest machine shop or slipped a zero on the end of the ARP price. Last time I looked you could find either the stock set or ARP in the $100 range. Look online.
Ten years ago a shop did a head gasket job for me to cure a coolant leak that turned out to be caused by two 50 cent O rings. Not only did they fail to find replace the O-rings, they reused the studs & bolts. A couple of years later it blew and I had to do it all again AND mill the warped head in the deal.
Get a new set of bolts & studs ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Either you have the world's cheapest machine shop or slipped a zero on the end of the ARP price. Last time I looked you could find either the stock set or ARP in the $100 range. Look online.
Ten years ago a shop did a head gasket job for me to cure a coolant leak that turned out to be caused by two 50 cent O rings. Not only did they fail to find replace the O-rings, they reused the studs & bolts. A couple of years later it blew and I had to do it all again AND mill the warped head in the deal.
Get a new set of bolts & studs ... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
And here I thought with the headline of "TR7 Studs" the topic was going to be about MichaelF, ObiRichKanobi, Klutz, Dale, me and the rest of the cool-guy TR7 drivers! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
By the way MichaelF, are you going to come down to Tyee's Northwest Triumph drive-in in Olympia in the summer? It's being held just a few miles from where I live, so I'll be dropping in.
By the way MichaelF, are you going to come down to Tyee's Northwest Triumph drive-in in Olympia in the summer? It's being held just a few miles from where I live, so I'll be dropping in.
>>Tyee's Northwest Triumph drive-in in Olympia
For sure. If I'm anywhere near the state of Washington on that weekend -- I'll be there.
I really enjoyed the ATDI held last summer in New Westminster. The adventure was recounted here https://tr7madness.blogspot.com/ -- scroll down to "Will of the Triumph Part II"
For sure. If I'm anywhere near the state of Washington on that weekend -- I'll be there.
I really enjoyed the ATDI held last summer in New Westminster. The adventure was recounted here https://tr7madness.blogspot.com/ -- scroll down to "Will of the Triumph Part II"
Don't think any digets were ommitted. Barry's machine in Chehalis charged $125 to mill head flat and parralled top and bottom and then line bore the cam towers. Not perfect, but it sure is pretty now and a whole lot better than it was. I trust it will work a while if I can keep it cool. Along those lines, what is the biggest problem with the cooling system. I don't plan on going for originality. I'm looking for drivability keeping the original mill in place. The radiator looks plenty big for the engine to me. Assuming that's not the problem, what is and what can be done to correct it. Read that as drive without worrying about the temp. gauge all the time. Thanks.
First you have to promise not to reuse the studs and bolts ....
As for the overheating, there are many posts here and in other TR7 forums about it. Lots of good advice. Get a new pump if you know the old one to be failed. The later 12 vane is better and will fit the older housings. Prepare for sticker shock. It seems people try to save money by attempting rebuilds. These come out 50% of the time. The other times, the whole thing blows and they end up with head job #3. You'll want a press and a good set of drifts. You mention a metal lathe. Sounds like you have access to these kinds of tools.
Stock cooling is fine BTW as long as everything is in order. Be sure you have timing and mixture right. These affect heat greatly and are often ignored.
You're doing engine mods ? A safety option is a 4 row rad. I did this on the green '76 and now heat never rises above half.
Before you reinstall the head check the manifold attachment points. Many strip and need helicoils. You're going to check for valve recession, lap in things properly and make sure the cam shaft is running true. Then there's the valve adjusting shims ....
As for the overheating, there are many posts here and in other TR7 forums about it. Lots of good advice. Get a new pump if you know the old one to be failed. The later 12 vane is better and will fit the older housings. Prepare for sticker shock. It seems people try to save money by attempting rebuilds. These come out 50% of the time. The other times, the whole thing blows and they end up with head job #3. You'll want a press and a good set of drifts. You mention a metal lathe. Sounds like you have access to these kinds of tools.
Stock cooling is fine BTW as long as everything is in order. Be sure you have timing and mixture right. These affect heat greatly and are often ignored.
You're doing engine mods ? A safety option is a 4 row rad. I did this on the green '76 and now heat never rises above half.
Before you reinstall the head check the manifold attachment points. Many strip and need helicoils. You're going to check for valve recession, lap in things properly and make sure the cam shaft is running true. Then there's the valve adjusting shims ....
ObiRichKanobi
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I've got an electric cooling fan mounted on the inside of the radiator, as a "puller", and have never had the temp go past half way. In order to mount the fan, you have to remove the original fan and fan clutch.