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Wedge TR7 Head Problem

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Izual Angel

Jedi Trainee
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Got up early this morning after a late night trip to AutoZone for a stud remover. Got out there, things are great, the first 3 head studs come out ok, but the last two nearest the firewall both broke off level with the head. All the bolts are out it's just those stupid 2 at the back. Any ideas on how to move on? The Haynes manual doesn't cover this problem at all.

Also, where can I get a replacement seal for the front windscreen?

Thanks.
 
A stud remover might work, but it might be in your best interest to pull the engine and take to an engine shop. Thats not something you want screwed up. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonod.gif
 
I used a stud remover. It broke the threaded stud ends off.
 
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I used a stud remover. It broke the threaded stud ends off.

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It's not easy and has to be done with a great deal of accuracy and care but center drill them with as small a drill as possible. Then go bigger and bigger. Then use what is called an easy out (I call them rarely out) or screw remover, which may or may not work. Biggest risk is if you drill out of center. If perfectly centered you can drill right up to the threads and then tap again. I have done this many times but it sure is better if you get in a jamb to have a qualified machine shop do it. They can center drill to perfection. Unfortunately I don't have choice and have to it myself. Another problem is can you even get to the studs with a drill.
 
I say use an easy out, they usually work well, its just getting your hole centered that is a pain. Good luck.
 
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...Then use what is called an easy out (I call them rarely out)... I have done this many times but it sure is better if you get in a jamb to have a qualified machine shop do it.

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"Rarely Out" - that's a good one. You might talk to a machine shop. When I had a broken stud they gave me two prices: one was if it was just a broken stud and I hadn't messed with it (cheap) and the other was if I had broken off an EZ Out in there (expensive and followed by the words 'and up'). I got the message.
 
Good point. DON'T force an Easy-out. Sears has a screw removing drill set which I have used with some luck but not sure it will help with a frozen stud. It drills backwards thus trying to turn the screw/bolt counter clockwise.

Again if you are going to try this, really REALLY spend some time center punching the studs. And a good couple of hard center punch raps with a hammer can sometimes loosen it enough that a remover might work. The Sears removing drill is a really heavy duty drill and doubt it will snap. Easy-outs can snap.
 
Whoah guys!! An easy-out is NOT going to get this thing out. If a stud remover with a full breaker bar working on it doesn't budge it and simple snapped the stud, do you really think a 1/4 " easy-out, likely off center, turned with a crescent wrench is going to help ?

I'm afraid Izual is in a very messy spot. A machine shop might have shot at it but they may just as well say the thing will have to come out with a plasma cutter.

The studs are angled meaning it's unlikely the whole thing can be rocked off.

The lower bolts are all out right ? Try it. It's your only hope.

Otherwise there are enough partable TR7s around that you may be better off pulling the engine and tossing the old one.
 
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Whoah guys!! An easy-out is NOT going to get this thing out. do you really think a 1/4 " easy-out... turned with a crescent wrench is going to help ? [ QUOTE ]


Yes I do. Sometimes the drilling can help loosen a bolt. If it were me I would try it. I would also, once center punched, really give it a hard hit with that punch. I would also suggest once drilled to punch it hard again with something that fits in the drill hole such as a hole alignment tool. Make sure you did not drill all the way through the stud.
 
The other 3 came out really, really hard. All of em (including the bolts) all had nasty rust on the threads. I'll take a look to-day and see if I can get a drill near those studs. Thanks for the help fellas.
 
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The other 3 came out really, really hard. All of em (including the bolts) all had nasty rust on the threads. I'll take a look to-day and see if I can get a drill near those studs. Thanks for the help fellas.

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I have never had much luck with oils that are supposed to free up rusted bolts but you could try it over a period of days.

Probably best to have a professional shop do it but first
see if they will commit to a price. Hard to do I know but what starts as a $100 job suddenly becomes $1000 with a sorry attached.
 
OK, Get # 4 2/3rds up on the compression stroke,take out spark plug, fill cylinder with engine oil.Put spark plug back in head. Put a bolt back in the head at the front. Tighten, but leave space the thickness of a thin washer.Get acyletine torch and heat center of broken studs till red, very small flame only.Back and forth, back and forth on each stud. When both are dull red, dump a coffee can of water on them. (If you do this right, you will not melt the head)Bump starter, hydraulic pressure should just pop the head. The heating of the studs and the cold water drench should break the aluminum to steel unholy alliance.If you don't have a welders torch, use a propane torch with a bottle of MAPP gas. It is your next best choice.If you use the MAPP gas, just heat the outside of the head around the studs, not the studs themselves. MAPP gas will not melt your head.
 
Is the head off? Are you working with just the block. Not sure I understand exactly what is what now.
 
The studs are angled meaning it's unlikely the whole thing can be rocked off.

The lower bolts are all out right ? Try it. It's your only hope.

Otherwise there are enough partable TR7s around that you may be better off pulling the engine and tossing the old one.

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My one personal experience with a 7 head removal I was able to remove the head with 2 of the long angled studs in place. The problem is usually not the studs but just breaking the head loose from the block without destroying the head or the block. If you encounter much more trouble and you likely will, I would consider pulling the engine as it probably needs more than just head work anyway. Of course the engine is rebuildable in the car once the head is off, but the odds are that it will need crank work which necessitates pulling the engine.
These engines once right are good units even though many are replaced with v6s or 8s. Good Luck
 
I seriously don't want to pull the engine. Everything else seems fine. There is very little wear on the cam and it turns over really smoothly. I may try that torch thing. I thought about it before, but I don't have a torch yet. I removed the head from my spare engine while it had two damaged head studs, but I won't do it that way to this head since I think it may still be good.
 
Disreguard what you have been told up to now, none of it works. We have extensive experience with Stag and TR7 heads in our club experiences.
Okay, you have two options, but FIRST, DO NOT DRILL the stud, it is not perpendicular to the head nor block, and solvents will do nothing except [censored] you off. Also, DO NOT TRY WELDING anything or you will defact the washer bolt surface. Also, DO NOT USE OIL in the cylinders as it will create a huge mess.

DO NOT USE WEDGES OR PRYING DEVICES, as you will damage your head beyond repair.

1. You can use the rope trick, very inexpensive, instructions at https://www.tscusa.org not as fast as a #2 below, but will work probably before you can get a head removal tool shipped to you.
or
2. you can locate a head removal plate designed for the TR7 and Stag heads. Ours is available as a club tool for members only and is out being used.

Good luck!
 
I think he's right.

Torch = No
Welding = No
Easy-out = Forget it.

Just for fun, try putting the plugs back in *disconnected* and turn over the engine a couple of times. That might break things loose on regaulr compression.

The rope trick sounds intersting, though. Thank God I didn't have to use it on either of my wedges.
 
Stagbytriumph - Do you have a picture, or can you describe this plate? If it's not too hard to make I could have a friend of mine make one for me.
 
I like the rope trick, similar in principle to my suggestion. I have used it to replace a broken valve spring.With all but the last two studs removed and he uses the rope trick on the front two cyls a good chance of cracking the head. I don't remember suggesting welding anything, I said to heat with a small hot flame the centers of the studs dull red,then wash down with water instantly. expansion/contraction. Oil for hydrulic pressure in #4only,builds greater pressure than shock absorbing nylon rope. Mapp gas to a lessor extent does the same,this time heat the head area,not the studs.I have used this procedure on themostat housings{thin walled} to success many times. Your procedure may be better for the inexperinced with a torch,also it might be the better way altogether,as I have not tried it to remove a head.
 
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