but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
The last couple of times I started my TR6, the ignition switch would only work after I turned the key back and forth a few times, but now nothing happens. I figured it may be the ignition switch, so I swapped it out with a spare. No change. I noticed I have no lights either. The battery is a little low, so I am charging it now. I don’t know if it makes a difference, but I have electronic ignition. I did clean the posts on the battery, and I will clean the ground to the body when I get home. Other ideas?
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
General TR TR6 won’t start, no lights
- Thread starter ichthos
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
When you say it won't start, do you mean that it won't crank or it cranks but won't "catch"?
If it's totally dead, you've got a break in the circuit somewhere close to the start of the circuit, like the regulator, ignition switch, or any connection to them. That should be easy to find with a voltmeter or test light--just start at the battery and trace through the circuit. Yes, it could be a ground, but there are plenty of other places it could be. None of us can guess this; it just takes a little work with a meter to find the bad point.
If it's totally dead, you've got a break in the circuit somewhere close to the start of the circuit, like the regulator, ignition switch, or any connection to them. That should be easy to find with a voltmeter or test light--just start at the battery and trace through the circuit. Yes, it could be a ground, but there are plenty of other places it could be. None of us can guess this; it just takes a little work with a meter to find the bad point.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Pop the battery clamps off and check for (white) corrosion between the clamps and posts. Wouldn't hurt to give a quick cleaning with a wire brush, and a light coat of preservative or Vaseline.
If that's not it, I would check that strange connector in the hot battery cable. Its easy for corrosion to creep under the cover and cause problems.
After that, just start chasing power, from the battery terminals to the headlight switch and ignition switch.
If that's not it, I would check that strange connector in the hot battery cable. Its easy for corrosion to creep under the cover and cause problems.
After that, just start chasing power, from the battery terminals to the headlight switch and ignition switch.
So, battery is fully charged. I cleaned the posts and grounding strap to the body. No change. I also cleaned connections to the starter. My car is still absolutely dead. I really don’t understand how to trace electrical problems but would like to learn how. Can someone give me a starting point using a test light?
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
What year ?
I ask because there are differences.....but this book covers them all.
https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/books-videos/electrical-maintenance-handbook
It's a book that sooner or later....you'll be happy you own it....or sorry you don't.
I ask because there are differences.....but this book covers them all.
https://mossmotors.com/triumph-tr6-250/books-videos/electrical-maintenance-handbook
It's a book that sooner or later....you'll be happy you own it....or sorry you don't.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
While you're waiting for the book (also available from TRF), here's a few basic steps.
Turn on the headlight switch, so there is a load on the system (or would be if you didn't have a problem).
Start by touching the test lamp leads to the battery clamps. You should get a nice bright light.
Now one lead to the positive clamp, the other to the engine block. Should see same brightness as before.
Hot clamp to a good body ground. One of your leads should have a point, which you may need to use to dig through any paint or rust.
Now connect one lead (usually with an alligator clip) to the negative clamp (or another convenient ground). Double check that you still get a light when probing the battery hot post/clamp, then check the hot post on the starter.
From there, it depends a bit on year as Ken said. Should be one or more heavy brown wires connected to either the starter post, or the connector in the cable that I mentioned before. The Advance Auto Wire site has original schematics for each year (which are also in the book). Probe the brown wires(s) to check for power there.
On years with an ammeter, also check the output terminal at the alternator. If no juice there, your ammeter may have failed (or the wires to it).
If you still don't find a problem, you'll need to get access to the ignition switch and headlight switch. Check the brown or brown/white or brown/blue wires at the switches for power.
With the headlight switch still on, it should pass power to the blue wire. If you need to still work towards the headlights, check the wires at the high/low beam switch. It should have power coming in in the blue wire, going out on either UW or UR.
Back at the ignition switch, you can turn the switch to 'Run' and check for power in the white wire.
Etc, etc. Eventually, you'll come to a place that should have power and doesn't, meaning the problem lies in the section you just moved past.
Or, when working on the ground side, you'll come to a place that is hot and shouldn't be. Again, you just moved past the problem.
Once you find a problem, stop testing and fix that problem. Then check for symptoms again and, if necessary, restart the process of tracing along the circuit. Although usually there is only a single issue that you just fixed, sometimes it happens that multiple issues show up at the same time, or even that a new issue appeared while fixing the last one.
Also a good idea to keep an eye on those headlights, in case the problem vanishes temporarily. Moving things around will often get a bad connection to conduct for a time. In that case, wiggle and move wires in the area you were working on, to see if you can get the problem to come back.
PS Don't forget to turn the switch off if you walk away. Even if the lights don't work, there may be enough drain through the switch to run the battery down. Or the gremlins may make the lights work while you're not watching, just to frustrate you (and kill the battery).
Turn on the headlight switch, so there is a load on the system (or would be if you didn't have a problem).
Start by touching the test lamp leads to the battery clamps. You should get a nice bright light.
Now one lead to the positive clamp, the other to the engine block. Should see same brightness as before.
Hot clamp to a good body ground. One of your leads should have a point, which you may need to use to dig through any paint or rust.
Now connect one lead (usually with an alligator clip) to the negative clamp (or another convenient ground). Double check that you still get a light when probing the battery hot post/clamp, then check the hot post on the starter.
From there, it depends a bit on year as Ken said. Should be one or more heavy brown wires connected to either the starter post, or the connector in the cable that I mentioned before. The Advance Auto Wire site has original schematics for each year (which are also in the book). Probe the brown wires(s) to check for power there.
On years with an ammeter, also check the output terminal at the alternator. If no juice there, your ammeter may have failed (or the wires to it).
If you still don't find a problem, you'll need to get access to the ignition switch and headlight switch. Check the brown or brown/white or brown/blue wires at the switches for power.
With the headlight switch still on, it should pass power to the blue wire. If you need to still work towards the headlights, check the wires at the high/low beam switch. It should have power coming in in the blue wire, going out on either UW or UR.
Back at the ignition switch, you can turn the switch to 'Run' and check for power in the white wire.
Etc, etc. Eventually, you'll come to a place that should have power and doesn't, meaning the problem lies in the section you just moved past.
Or, when working on the ground side, you'll come to a place that is hot and shouldn't be. Again, you just moved past the problem.
Once you find a problem, stop testing and fix that problem. Then check for symptoms again and, if necessary, restart the process of tracing along the circuit. Although usually there is only a single issue that you just fixed, sometimes it happens that multiple issues show up at the same time, or even that a new issue appeared while fixing the last one.
Also a good idea to keep an eye on those headlights, in case the problem vanishes temporarily. Moving things around will often get a bad connection to conduct for a time. In that case, wiggle and move wires in the area you were working on, to see if you can get the problem to come back.
PS Don't forget to turn the switch off if you walk away. Even if the lights don't work, there may be enough drain through the switch to run the battery down. Or the gremlins may make the lights work while you're not watching, just to frustrate you (and kill the battery).
Problem fixed! I traced the break in the power coming into the ignition switch. The previous owner had siced wire, but failed to make a good connection. I ohmed the old switch, and it was bad also. Anyway, thanks for helping me get it started, but thanks for the trouble shooting lessons too.
Online
Love it when a plan comes together - congrats on the fix and your newfound skill!
D
Deleted member 8987
Guest
Guest
Offline
I'd tell you to use a test light (actually designed for the purpose of checking LIVE power in automobiles), but LAST time I will EVER do that on this forum some FORUM MEMBER went off on the dangers of working on live circuits...so now I just do it myself or help others in person.
But, the easiest way to determine present power is a test light...and grounds by connecting clip to hot side of battery. (notice I didn't say "+" side..in case it's + grounded).
Keep a test light in your on-board tool kit.
Must be a change in cranial pressure at the 49th. That actually means something.
But, the easiest way to determine present power is a test light...and grounds by connecting clip to hot side of battery. (notice I didn't say "+" side..in case it's + grounded).
Keep a test light in your on-board tool kit.
Must be a change in cranial pressure at the 49th. That actually means something.
I was very appreciative for all the help. I was especially grateful for Randall’s detailed help. I think if you worry about who might be offended, you would not be able go say anything. I appreciate all the help you have given me in the past too, TOC. I think you have to weigh out few negatives against the overwhelming good you have done over the years.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Years ago there was an editorial cartoon, about a fellow that tried to be perfectly safe. Moved to a desert island, so no car accidents and so on. Then got killed by a falling piece of Sky Lab!
Sure, there is some risk in working on hot circuits, just like there is some risk in driving a car. Recognize the risk, do what you can to minimize it (eg leave one of the battery clamps loose so you can yank it off in a hurry), but keep moving forward.
And if you still have questions, listen to this song a few times
Sure, there is some risk in working on hot circuits, just like there is some risk in driving a car. Recognize the risk, do what you can to minimize it (eg leave one of the battery clamps loose so you can yank it off in a hurry), but keep moving forward.
And if you still have questions, listen to this song a few times