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TR6 Tr6 windshield glass removal

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TR3TR6

TR3TR6

Jedi Warrior
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Has anybody removed the windshield glass on a TR6 without cutting the rubber seal around it? I need to replace my front windshield frame and have a relatively new rubber seal on it and would like to reuse the seal. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
Terry, do you want to buy a new rubber or windshield??? You can get one or the other out of the frame and if it has not had black sealer injected, you may be able to work it out. Don't use anything metal, (screwdriver) to pry with and start in a top corner with a bunch of wooden wedges(door and window shims) and you might get lucky. If you are paying someone to do it, buy a new rubber.

Wayne
 
Thanks Wayne, no I want to move the windshield and seal to another frame. I didn't consider the wooden wedges. I was trying to get it out using some plastic wedges and I was working on the top corner of the windshield. It may be a two person job; I was trying it by myself. I may end up having to purchase another seal. Trying to save some bucks!
 
Pull the plastic trim piece out and simply push the windshield out the front. I have done it that way a couple times have somebody on the outside to "catch" it. Use soft force spread over a large area. Like hands (or feet). Don't force it, but as I recall it didn't take excessive force to get it done. Might be different if a sealer was used.

P.S. if you have already gotten it started with the wooden wedges it will be even easier.
Greg
 
Terry, we all try and save a buck or two. Wish I had all the money I have saved, but then again, wish I had all the money I had to spend because I broke what ever it was or a spring went bong and no one saw it. LOL

Wayne
 
I know what your saying Wayne, I went and ordered another seal, with my luck I would probably break the windshield which cost a lot more than the seal.
 
I would add on the push it out method that I would put towels or a tarp or something over the hood, but it really doesn't pop out just kind of eazes its way off.

Nothing wrong with trying to save the seal, if it survives and looks good you can use it, if it doesn't you can order a new one. Windshield should be pretty tough just don't use any sharp metal implements in its removal (or re-install).
 
glemon said:
Pull the plastic trim piece out and simply push the windshield out the front. I have done it that way a couple times have somebody on the outside to "catch" it. Use soft force spread over a large area. Like hands (or feet). Don't force it, but as I recall it didn't take excessive force to get it done. Might be different if a sealer was used.

P.S. if you have already gotten it started with the wooden wedges it will be even easier.
Greg
Click to expand...
Old topic, but I'm unclear on this. When you push forward, what comes out? Just the glass, or the glass with the entire rubber gasket? What are we pushing? Also, where do the wood wedges go? The inside or the outside, and under the glass or just under the rubber gasket?
 
The risk of breakage far outweighs the cost of a new rubber.I have done dozens over the years and have never
considered saving a used rubber. In theory, removing the locking strip should make removal quite easy(as described)
but in practice, windscreens like to crack.
Mad dog
 
I need to put in a new windshield, so I don’t care at all if I break the old one. I also have a new gasket ready to go. Are you saying I should get a knife and just cut the old gasket off? If so, is there a preferred method of doing that?
 
The prefered method involves NO bloodshed or gouged paint.Put the box knife in the slot for the
moulding (after it's out)at a 45 deg angle, to the glass, and slice away. The glass is easily pushed out with a second set of hands....
I suggest after fitting the new rubber to the new glass,apply some glycerin to the rubber. Softens and preserves.
Install the 1/4inch clothes line in the pinchweld slot and pull it into the frame.. The moulding is fairly easy
to press into it's slot with the afore mentioned lube. Presto job done!!
Mad dog
 
I have the gasket on the window and I’m ready to put the window in the frame, but I have another question. I installed the gasket with the fused joint in the rubber on the bottom, as suggested. I tried to center it, but I see that I got off by about 2 inches. Is that important? Is the gasket shaped in a way that buckling will occur when I install the window?
 
I’ve tried putting that gasket on the windshield both with and without glycerin. After about three hours of messing around and getting nowhere, I decided to take a break.

The gasket keeps going on one side and slipping off the other, finally going on altogether and then coming off altogether. I had it one time where I thought it was finished then as soon as I picked it up to put it into the windshield frame, the gasket started slipping off yet again.

I’ll get it, but it won’t be easy, and I’ll probably have to have one of my kids come by and lend me two more hands.
 
Well, I have my new windshield and gasket installed in my TR4A. I used glycerin and pulled a cord through the frame. I’d like to tell everyone about the experience and what I learned. I will, just as soon as I recover. I feel like I’ve been mugged and beaten.
 
WOW. I needed a helper. Whether a poor manufacture, or whatever, the gasket kept sliding off one end or the other. Then, it seemed buckled in two locations. Sort of crimped up along two edges.

Once in, the gymnastics to push it down and in were a bit crazy. I’d like to add a sound file of the grunts.

It finally seemed to go in when I hit it with my purse:smile:.

Seriously, the rope helped a ton, but no matter how hard we tried to avoid problems, we got hung up at each upper corner and the rope tore the gasket a bit up in each corner. Darn.

It just got snagged, and I think it was my fault because of the angle of my pull. When I pulled straight down, instead of toward me, it finally gave. The two tears are tiny and almost invisible.

Anyway, that’s my update. Patience, four hands, an understanding of the realities of new manufacture, old cars, and old people helps make the process easier.

Thanks all—

PS That finishing bead was no day in the park either. It took two hours to fit it while avoiding pop-outs. We used padded Stanley vice clamps (each side of the windshield) to press the bead into the slot. A rubber hammer was not effective.
 
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Now if you really want to visit Satan's Garage, try an MGB. They are worse by a factor of 10.
The last one I did was a blank check deal and I could NOT charge enough. The insurance co. threw
a fit. Many of the parts of the frame will not come out even with extreme heat.The AM rubbers
can drive you to despair.
My last experience was( for a good friend ) just installing the new lower seal . The first AM seal
was NOT useable and we wasted 2hours in the attempt.The second only took 20 minutes since it was
made properly. In no way should anyone but a trained professional attempt an MGB WS replacement.
(and you can't find one who will)
Mad dog
 
Thanks for the help and advice. It feels good to be done and to have a clear view of the road without nighttime headlights flashing glare in my face. Everyone wants a project to go smoothly, but for windshields I know to expect a battle. That decorative plastic chrome "bead" surround was also way more hassle than the Rusty Beauties video would seem to indicate. If I had "round 2" for my windshield I think I might have put more glycerin in that clothesline slot. I think I was too sparing.
 
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