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TR6 TR6 wheel choices

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R_Lyle

R_Lyle

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I'm interested in hearing some views on a problem I have with the stock set of wheels on my TR6. The car shakes quite a bit at the 50-55MPH range even after installing new tires. My tire guy says that the wheels are no longer true and that is just the way they are unless I get new wheels. I checked into a company that can make custom wheels for the car and they are rather inexpensive ($68.00 a wheel) but they don't match the existing style exactly. Has anyone found a way to either fix the existing wheels or know of a company that can make wheels for the car that looks like the original? I'm not crazy about spending the $200 per wheel on the after market Mini-lite or similar type wheel given a limited budget.
 
Rob..... just Google "Truing Steel Wheels" and you'll find places like Stockton Steel Wheel Company. They problem is you'll want one near you as shipping 4 TR6 wheels will cost a bunch of $$$$$

I see you've got a '91 Q45. My wife had one for about 4 years and loved it. I see where Infiniti has dropped the Q from their vehicle line.
 
Make sure they balanced them correctly. TR6 wheels are "lug centric" and uses a different adapter than the "hub centric" design. If they balanced them as they would a "hub centric" wheel, the balance is easily off and they will usually blame the wheel of an old car instead of operator error.
 
Well I checked to see about straightening them and it costs about $125/wheel so that makes no sense. I'm looking at buying another set of used steel wheels but I guess I might end up with the same problem.
 
Rob, you said it costs $125 a wheel to straighten them, but is there a place that would just double check to see if they are in fact not straight? I do not think that is a very common problem with these wheels. I am on a budget too - I know how you feel. Personally, I would get another opinion before you go for another set of wheels - especailly in light of what Shawn said. If money is the issue, you might might want to experiment by just taking in one wheel to someone else before you do anything drastic. If the one wheel is deemed OK, I would be suspecious about your tire guy's diagnosis. Just my two cents.

Kevin
 
Don't laugh, but I found Walmart did an excellent job of balancing my tires.
When I ordered a new set of Dunlop Signatures from Tirerack, I had them mounted and balanced at an independent tire shop. I wasn't too happy with the balance at the same speeds you mentioned; so after a few hundred miles I removed the wheels and tires and brought them to Walmart.
I was very pleased with the results.
 
It is very easy to check the run-out on your wheels. Acceptable radial and lateral run-out is up to .045 inch. Using a front axle, jack the car up enough for the tire to clear the ground. Then using a reference pointer made of wood, or whatever, (or preferably a dial indicator if you have one) position it so it just barely touches the outside edge of the rim. Carefully rotate the wheel and observe the run-out. You will needed to do this for both the lateral and radial run-out. The same technique can be used on the inside. Do this for each wheel.

.045" is noticeable, at about 3/64"

Here is an article.

https://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1272406.html?page=2
 
That's a good Popular Mechanics article. It's interesting to note they measure runout at the tire tread (picture with dial indicator) and at a verticle surface on the wheel. I also did a quick search on harborfreight.com and found two dial indicators for under $10. Think I'll do a quick test at home before re-balancing the wheels again. Last resort is to trade up to a more expensive after market wheel.
 
Of course, given that the stock steel wheels have been known to break in the center, having them straightened might not be the best thing to do.

But I'm more inclined to believe your shop didn't balance them right, as Shawn mentioned. I've got several TR6 wheels that are significantly bent; the one on the project TR3 is so bad that people literally stop me on the street to tell me the wheel is coming off! but the resulting vibration is relatively minor even at 80 mph.
 
I'm east of Greensboro so I'll check Henrix (didn't think of it) wheel. I'm looking at a set of used Konig's so I might go that route instead. Apparently the car shaking at 55MPH is a common problem with the steel wheels so it might not be possible to fix them.
 
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