TR6 TR6 Upper a-arm pivot

[Tosh]

Gentlemen,
Recently completed installation of the nylatron bushes and the front swaybar, both supplied by GoodParts. The handling difference is (to coin a phrase) awesome.
When reassembling the suspension I turned the upper a-arm pivot so that the outer/curved part of the casting is toward the motor. I had previously rebuilt the front with those pieces having the "curve" toward the tire.
I do not remember how they were originally. I think I have pictures of them both ways.
Anyway, It appears that I have now introduced some negative camber to the front suspension. I have liked negative camber (in the proper amounts) ever since "track days" in my GT Mustang.
The measured difference in the spindle locations thru the centerline of the pivots looks to be about 1/4". So that would be roughly 1/4" more negative camber. I did not change the number (1) of shims in the lower wishbone.
Other than tire wear can anyone think of a reason not to have some - camber on this car?
The steering is a bit heavier but the car is eons more stable than before I completed all of this work.

Your thoughts?

Tosh

 

[ALLAN]

Tosh, as you probably know the reason for neg.camber is to keep the outside tire flat on the ground when going around turns(max contact patch). Every car is different on the camber requirements, with the tr6 it has been proven that generally speakig 2 to 2 1/2 degrees camber is more than enough for high performance handling. It has been proven that turning your fulcrum around gives excessive camber and not needed. I would turn your fulcrum arount to stock (curve facing out) and adjust your camber with the shims using the measurment of degrees not inches. To get 2 degrees neg. it will take some where around 3 shims at each adjustment point. If you like a lot of camber for the looks ---then go for it but your tires will wear quickly on the inside edge.

 

[Tosh]

Allan,

OK. Well said.

Tosh

 

[SCguy]

I would add to the above recomendations that one of the biggest improvements in handling on my car came from getting a four whel alignment done at a shop. Cost about $100. but was well worth the expenses.

 

[Tosh]

Larry,
Quite correct you are.
FWIW the handling steps I have completed started with the wheels and tires, formerly 215/70/15 on stock wheels; now: 205/70/15 on 7" Kòenigs (-4lbs unsprung weight per wheel/tire combination). Next was the switch to a 7/8 " sway bar up front along with the Nylatron bushings up front.
The car tracks beautifully and is soooo stable in turns. I will be returning the upper pivots to their stock positions.
The one shortcoming I still must tackle is torque steer on acceleration. Maybe that is where an alignment can help or perhaps a rear sway bar.
Thank you for your input.
Tosh