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TR6 TR6 Tune-up guidance

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bricktop

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Is there any consensus out there on how often to get a tune-up for an LBC? I have owned a 76 TR6 for about three years now and I am just getting a tune-up for the first time since taking ownership.

I wasn't having any serious performance issues, except that the car had gotten to the point where I had to keep the choke on slightly to keep a solid 1k idle...even with plenty of warm-up time.

Just curious. Thanks.
 
Brick,

Rule of thumb as follows

1. Plugs
2. Points & Condenser
3. Fuel filter
4. Air filter
5. Check spark plug wires
6. Start engine,get warmed up and set timing - do NOT adjust carbs until ignition is set to factory specs and any worn or cracked wires are replaced. Do the set if one is bad, because they all will follow.
7. After ignition, set carbs. Although it sounds like you may have a vacuum leak, so you may want to check for that before messing with the carbs.
 
IMO a major tune-up should also include checking the valve adjustment. Easiest to do it while the plugs are out to be changed, IMO.

Also note that the timing procedure given in the books is sometimes confusing. The "4 ATDC" timing figure is only valid if the vacuum retard is connected and operating. With the retard disconnected, disabled or non-operative, you should use the 'static' timing figure given, which ISTR is around 12 BTDC.

I would suggest getting a copy of the owner's handbook, and following the service intervals given there. A whole LOT of stuff to do, and all of it good ideas (like putting a drop of oil under the rotor every 6000 miles or so, to lubricate the spark advance mechanism). IMO the majority of the myth about Triumphs being unreliable is because people don't perform the specified maintenance!

One exception is changing the transmission and differential oil, which IMO should be performed at least every 50k miles or so. ISTR the later books said not to change it at all (until the unit wore out of course). For the diff, you can either get one of those pumps to pump it out, or add a drain plug fitting.
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Periodically check the rotor itself, making sure there is no play between the blade and the plastic body. Many of the currently manufactured rotors have rivets that aren't very durable.
Always keep a spare in your glove box.
 
i came on here for the exact same problem and assumed it was to adjust the carbs. perfect.

would yall mind expanding on the setting the igition? or pointing me on the right path in a bentley manual. thanks

w
 
Pay particular attention to what Brosky said at the end. Check for a vacuum leak particularly on fittings and hoses coming off your intake manifold.
As for tune-ups, I like doing them. I check the valve clearance and spark plugs twice a year, fiddle with the timing and carb mixture a little more often, usually resulting in nothing more than me having fun.
 
im a noob. whats the proper way on setting the ignition timing, i have a electric starter by the way.
 
A couple of points to add to the procedure in that write-up:

You want to set the points gap prior to setting the timing since any adjustment of the gap changes the timing.

I'm not one to doubt Ken, but my cars don't run well with 8 degrees of advance. I guess the message here is that final timing (and final carb tuning) is best done along the roadside as you see how the engine performs.
 
Okay, I am going to throw my 2 cents in. Forget the timing light....Why? The age of the car.

Strong probablility that the damper has moved on the shaft..

Do a compression test, then if everything shows good, adjust valves, replace plugs, Get an Advanced Distributor rotor, install points and condensor, set dwell, then using a vacuum gauge adjust your timing. Set the timing to where the vacuum gauge reads highest(usually 18+ inches) then back off two two inches of vacuum. The vacuum gauge can help you with carb mixture setting and vacuum leaks(but for vacuum leaks a can of carb cleaner sprayed around the suspect area is usually just as good.

There are several sites that offer excellent instructions on using a vacuum gauge.
 
RonMacPherson said:
Okay, I am going to throw my 2 cents in. Forget the timing light....Why? The age of the car.

Strong probablility that the damper has moved on the shaft..

Do a compression test, then if everything shows good, adjust valves, replace plugs, Get an Advanced Distributor rotor, install points and condensor, set dwell, then using a vacuum gauge adjust your timing. Set the timing to where the vacuum gauge reads highest(usually 18+ inches) then back off two two inches of vacuum. The vacuum gauge can help you with carb mixture setting and vacuum leaks(but for vacuum leaks a can of carb cleaner sprayed around the suspect area is usually just as good.

There are several sites that offer excellent instructions on using a vacuum gauge.
Click to expand...
You know there is going to be at least one person to agree with you on setting the timing with a Vacuum Gauge, you can bet on that.
Here's a link that I keep handy for my conversion efforts.
https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html
 
best triumph forum on the web. hands down.

gentlemen and scholars, the lot of ya.

thanks again.
 
I forgot to ask about one of my Strombergs seems to be moving through damper oil much faster than the other? What could be the problem and what should be the solution?

thanks
w
 
veale001 said:
I forgot to ask about one of my Strombergs seems to be moving through damper oil much faster than the other? What could be the problem and what should be the solution?
Click to expand...
There is an O-ring seal around the mixture adjustment screw inside the piston. When that seal starts to leak, it allows the damper oil to run down the needle and get sucked into the jet & burned. The solution is to replace the O-ring. Instructions, etc. at https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsII/CarbsII.htm

However, I used an unsharpened wooden pencil instead of the suggested steel rod, and just rapped the end of the pencil on the bench instead of using a hammer. Mostly because it was handy
grin.gif
 
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