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TR6 TR6 Timing
- Thread starter erstearns
- Start date
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Regarding the cam to dizzy gear, thought you would be 180 degrees off or right on. In the rebuilding process of the dizzy you could be off a tooth (or several) but as far as installing it in the block arent there only two ways? I assume you are referring to the gear between the cam and the dizzy drive and not with the dizzy into the block, correct?
Biggest issue is the old girl runs good, too loud (stebro stainless exhaust, headers) but just does not seem to have enough kick in the pants. Trying to get timing right, mixture etc and see if that makes a difference. If not then maybe a supercharger or pull the engine and rebuild the PO rebuild.
Wife cannot understand why I would tinker with the TR6 (running) while the 2 and the BE are in pieces
Biggest issue is the old girl runs good, too loud (stebro stainless exhaust, headers) but just does not seem to have enough kick in the pants. Trying to get timing right, mixture etc and see if that makes a difference. If not then maybe a supercharger or pull the engine and rebuild the PO rebuild.
Wife cannot understand why I would tinker with the TR6 (running) while the 2 and the BE are in pieces
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
I'm sure that he means the distributor driven gear, which is off the cam and under the drive cog from the actual distributor. The distributor only has a key way drive, of sorts. You are either on correctly or off by 180 degrees, but the distributor drive to cam gear has many teeth, so you can be off one or more on that, which would affect the position of the distributor up top.
EDIT: Pictures added below.
EDIT: Pictures added below.
Attachments
Got the TBV's backed out 11 turns, dizzy retard line plugged (recall talking to Paul when it was rebuilt and I think that was they way he intended it to run), idles at about 900-1000 and returns acceptably. Timing is about 24 BTDC. Tried with retard line hooked, timing down to about 14 and idle turned up but seems a bit more "sluggish". Will keep it here for now and move on with installing Toyota 5 speed and Q45 rearend through the winter. Maybe Santa will bring a supercharger too.
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
Well, thats progress. I've gotten a lot more spunk out of my engine by using a vacuum gauge to measure manifold vacuum (depression) as I rotated the dizzy with the vacuum retard connected. Inbetween 17 & 18 in-Hg I found my sweet spot.
Adjustment of the idle speed during the process to maintain 900 rpms is necessary to keep the vacuum readings meaningful. After the timing has been established then a carb mixture adjustment may be called for.
When you are thru, then use your timing light to correlate the actual timing to what the the marks on the damper happen to be.
But you'll have better results with the Vac. Gauge getting there. See this:
https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html
Adjustment of the idle speed during the process to maintain 900 rpms is necessary to keep the vacuum readings meaningful. After the timing has been established then a carb mixture adjustment may be called for.
When you are thru, then use your timing light to correlate the actual timing to what the the marks on the damper happen to be.
But you'll have better results with the Vac. Gauge getting there. See this:
https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html