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TR6 TR6 timing questions???

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wangdango

wangdango

Jedi Hopeful
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I have just rebuilt the carbs on the car, have plugged all the vac lines except for the one for the brake booster. The diaphram for the dist vac advance is broken and I have unhooked the spring inside the dist that goes to the vac advance and have plugged the spot on that that. Car will not run well at 10 degrees btdc, and runs best at about 25 btdc. The car is not "on the road" as of yet, but I suspect the car will not run well with out the "extra" advance the vac line on the dist would have given it... The car is a '76, and I would really rather have not have to hook up that vac to the dist again, not to mention, VB does not seem to have a replaceement. Advice, etc anything I can do make this car run really good.....
thanks
Ed
 
Send the broken distributor to Jeff at Advanced Distributors and you car will run a lot better and you'll be able to tune it properly.

Many of us have done so here and I've never heard of anyone wishing that they hadn't done it.
 
this is a car I am fixing for a neighbor, what is he doing that I cannot do? I have restored a number of other British cars, AH, Jaguar, etc.... Does anyone have advice? Why would the car run differently with a higher advance rather then the stock, static timing of 10 degrees btdc? Would guess/gather, that removing the vac advance, plugging/eliminating pollution crap, all make for changes..... Does anyone one have info on this sort of thing...?
 
I agree. But that thing on your distributor is not for advancing the timing. Quite the opposite; it's for retarding the timing, at low engine speed. Above 1100 rpms or so it has no real affect.
 
wangdango said:
this is a car I am fixing for a neighbor, what is he doing that I cannot do? I have restored a number of other British cars, AH, Jaguar, etc.... Does anyone have advice? Why would the car run differently with a higher advance rather then the stock, static timing of 10 degrees btdc? Would guess/gather, that removing the vac advance, plugging/eliminating pollution crap, all make for changes..... Does anyone one have info on this sort of thing...?
Click to expand...
Probably because like most older cars the marks on the damper are no longer accurate. Timing chain stretches, sprockets wear, gears on the dizzy drive wear; it all adds up. and the real 14* may be where the 20* mark is, for example.
Time it by ear or use a Vacuum Gauge https://automotivemileposts.com/garage/v2n8.html
 
If unhooking" the link now allows the distributor points plate to move about, try reconnecting the spring/link to the post and just leave the vacuum retard line disconnected, but plugged. The plate should be anchored, so that the points opening with the centrifugal action of the weights controls the spark timing. This should let your engine run well at the 10-12 deg. at idle.

Dick
 
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