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TR6 TR6 Suspension

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jerrybny

jerrybny

Jedi Knight
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Hi all, second post here. First one caused quite a stir. Anyways, I was wondering about whether or not a 73 TR6 should sit level or be lower in the back. I looked at a ton of pictures on the web and some of them were level and some of them weren't. Maybe the level ones were modified. Maybe I need new rear springs. Maybe everything is ok. I'm so confused. Well I will appreciate any feedback I get.
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BTW the rear is not sagging its just lower than the front.
 
Hello Jerry,

it should be level.
If you think the back is low, you could shim the springs to bring it up. Just be sure of the integrity of the frame where the rear springs mount at the top.

Alec
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Echoing Alec, the rear should be level. If sagging, I recommend buying (1) STOCK springs (not the uprated ones), (2) a pair of aluminum spring spacers to correct camber, and (3) poly spring packing pieces (4 ea). The R&R procedure is easily accomplished in an hour or two.

While you are there, Alec is correct in checking the condition of the trailing arm mounts. To do this properly, you really need to remove the 4 bolts attaching the brackets to the frame. I was alarmed to see that the hidden shank portions of 2 of my bolts were severely rusted and thus weakened. Of course, if the frame itself is rusted bad, you're into a whole different ballgame.

Rick O.
72 TR6
 
Hello Jerry, sorry I cant help on this topic, but I am very glad we didnt scare you away. As a matter of fact I was just reading the post in question yesterday. Glad to see you back.

Steve
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Thanks for the quick response. You guys are great. Now by poly spring packing pieces (4 ea) I am assuming you mean COIL SPRING SEAT SET - POLY? They sit on top and bottom of the spring right? I am looking at a Victoria British catalog. And I'm guessing I will need a spring compressor? Thanks in advance.
 
Hi Jerry,
Be very careful when compressing springs,that being said, welcome(again)and don't forget to wear your safety glasses.

Winston 67TR4 alpha IRS
 
Jerry,
Ditto on the fact that the TR6 should ride level in stock form. Did you indeed measure the ride height? TR6's by their design often "look" like they ride lower in the back. May be truly level and not know it. Removing the rear spring is a cake walk, simply (sorta) drops out when the shock is unbolted. Of couse you will need to jack the swing arm and lower with caution. The front spring REQUIRES a spring compressor. A word on poly bushings: noisy and rough riding. I went back to rubber. Back to springs, there are several vendors that offer competion springs, they ain't all the same. Those from TRF will jack the rear of the car. The ones I got from Brit Parts North West kept my alignment the same at the same time lowered the rear about 1/2 inch. Good advice from the others about checking the integrity of your frame whence redoing the suspension. Too, you have flexible brake hoses, etc. that should be changed if they show considerable age.
Have fun!

Bill
 
Jerry--Yes, what you quoted from the VB catalog is what you need. Regarding the use of poly bushes in the TR6, I have been very pleased using them everywhere EXCEPT for the diff mounts. Don't use poly there as the rubber bushes serve a valuable function of absorbing some of the torque loads rather than transmitting them directly to the relatively weak diff frame attachments.

Anyone who has fought the OEM bushes in the trailing arms knows what a relief the poly 2-halve design brings to the table.

As others have said, no special tools needed for the rear spring work, just a deliberate lowering with a jack after you have disconnected the lever arm shock link. The front springs are a different story and require a special tool that you won't find assembled in a auto parts store.

Rick O.
72 TR6
 
Ok Thanks for all the tips guys. Now my question is: the PO has installed the shock conversion kit. So when you say to lower the lever shock how does this relate to lowering the comversion shock.
Thanks for answering all my questions
 
Oh by the way, someone mentioned measuring the front and back height to see if they are the same. Where would I do the measuring.
 
Jerry,
Put the car on four jackstands, wheels well off the ground. Using your automotive floor jack, not a bottle jack, lift one rear wheel by placing the jack under the aluminum swing arm (I usually portect the aluminum with a piece of soft wood or leather on top of the jack table)as far from fulcrum point as you can and compress the spring about two inches. Unscrew the bottom nuts from tube shock (usually two jam nuts) and then slowly let swing arm down. Shock will release from hole in swing arm and swing arm will bottom out with the axle resting on frame. At this point, the spring should have all the tension out of it. May have to rotate the axle a bit or use a pry bar to push swing arm down more, but the spring will eventually fall out. May have to tease it a bit. Make sure you remove and renew the top and bottom bushes on spring.
Reverse procedure to re-install spring.
Bill
 
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