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TR6 TR6 Smoking?
- Thread starter veale001
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TonyPanchot
Jedi Trainee
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Your right Paul
I need to read the forum in the am not the pm
too tired and the mind is still spinning down
I need to read the forum in the am not the pm
too tired and the mind is still spinning down
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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To Randall's point, have you taken this car out and just run the living crap out of it? Maybe there is excessive water in the exhaust and it needs a good blowing out. If the drain hole in the muffler is blocked, it could be trapped in there causing the smoke when it gets a bit warm. You can probe that with a piece of stiff wire.
OP
veale001
Senior Member
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Well I have been running her hard for the past 2 days and I am not seeing any change in the coolant level and the amount of smoke seems to be dying down so it may be that I just needed to run it out. I appreciate the help.
Side question:
What are some ideas if I have my idle screws almost all the way out and my rpm's are still running high?
Side question:
What are some ideas if I have my idle screws almost all the way out and my rpm's are still running high?
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
veale001 said:
I can think of 3 possibilities, if the timing isn't too advanced.
1) a vacuum leak. 2) linkage adjustment 3) throttle bypass valve remaiming open.
For #1, check all the fittings especially the nipple under the front carb.
For #3, blip the throttle and see if the idle drops or with the engine at idle push on the adjustment screw for the throttle bypass valve, if it doesn't have the "tamper proof cap"
#2 is a little more hard to describe, but make sure that the choke is not being activated and that the fast idle screw has a bit of a gap between it and the throttle shaft lever. Also make sure that the control arm link (Moss # 676-040)is not adjusted so long that it's opening the throttle disc a bit too much at idle.
I'd rule those things out before looking elsewhere.
Another thought is to loosen the accordian-like spring coupling between the throttle shafts. Sometimes in tightening the little nut the throttle shaft is rotated slightly and when the nut is tightened, the throttle disc is cracked open more than it should be.
If I keep thinking, there may be more possibilites to arise, but look into the common ones first.
OP
veale001
Senior Member
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I have it set to ~12BTDC which seems to be the best setting with no retard unit plugged up.
I actually had adjusted the linkage/coupling a moment ago and it helped, but I decided it was time to explore the bypass valve and sure enough the diaphragm had deteriorated. When you say the adjustment screw which one are you referring to? If we used time on a clock as a reference which screw would that be? 11,1,2,3,4,7 or 8? Because I thought those just held it and the gasket in place? Thanks pb.
I actually had adjusted the linkage/coupling a moment ago and it helped, but I decided it was time to explore the bypass valve and sure enough the diaphragm had deteriorated. When you say the adjustment screw which one are you referring to? If we used time on a clock as a reference which screw would that be? 11,1,2,3,4,7 or 8? Because I thought those just held it and the gasket in place? Thanks pb.
poolboy
Yoda
Offline
The adjustment screw is in the center of the part that projects out, in the very center.
Your photo isn't very sharp so I can't really tell if the screw is covered by a "tamper proof" brass cap. The last 73 that I worked on had the cap so I wouldn't be surprised if your's also had the cap, but you can pry the cap out.
The condition of the diaphram will definitly affect the closing off of the bypass port and you'll get more fuel /air than you need for idling.
If you turn the screw fully CCW you will be increasing tension to the max on the spring that holds the valve closed. You can try that until you replace the diaphram or put a piece of duct tape across the inlet and outlet ports once you remove the TBV housing from the carb proper.
With a new diaphram you can get the right tension by turning the adj. screw fully CW then CCW about 8 turns.
Your photo isn't very sharp so I can't really tell if the screw is covered by a "tamper proof" brass cap. The last 73 that I worked on had the cap so I wouldn't be surprised if your's also had the cap, but you can pry the cap out.
The condition of the diaphram will definitly affect the closing off of the bypass port and you'll get more fuel /air than you need for idling.
If you turn the screw fully CCW you will be increasing tension to the max on the spring that holds the valve closed. You can try that until you replace the diaphram or put a piece of duct tape across the inlet and outlet ports once you remove the TBV housing from the carb proper.
With a new diaphram you can get the right tension by turning the adj. screw fully CW then CCW about 8 turns.