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TR6 tr6 shifting problems

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Inheritr6

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I’ve put 500 problem free miles on my TR6 since I got it running. It’s been running great, until yesterday.

As I put my car in reverse to back out of my garage the gears grinded a bit. I first thought maybe I didn’t put the clutch all the way in but when I tried to put it in first gear it was very difficult to get it in gear.

After playing around with it for a while this is what I have noticed:
Very difficult to put in 1st and 2nd gear when stopped.
Seems to be easier to put in gear if the car is rolling.
I noticed a leaking coming from my tranny about 2 weeks ago but haven’t had time to investigate any further.
Gears grind when putting it in reverse.

Where do you guys think I should start with this? Any ideas on what it might be?

Dan
 
DNK said:
Clutch pin! Bummer
Click to expand...

It could be the spring and tiny bit at the very tip of your shift lever but probably not.

Check it anyway..........before you dig out the sheared
off clutch, bearing fork, taper pin. What joy!!

dalepit.jpg
 
Check clutch fluid level is ok, bleed the clutch system to make sure there's no air in the hydraulics. Get someone to press the clutch while you have a look at the lever arm underneath. The lever arm should be vertical before the clutch is depressed, if it's leaning back towards the rear of the car you've got the sheared clutch pin problem.
 
Before putting the car on the road, did you bleed the clutch? It could be a bubble in the system...or
What part of the transmission is the leak coming from? Is your clutch reservoir low on fluid? You may have a bad master or slave cylinder or a leaking connection.
 
It is my humble opinion that the tr6 should have had the brace from the slave to the pan to prevent flexing of the steel plate that holds the slave. If you have someone operate the clutch as you watch from the underside you will be surprised how much this plate can flex.This has the effect of reducing the throw of the slave.....also an adjustable shaft is often helpfull(as found on the earlier cars).
Of course it must be bleed properly also......
MD(mad dog)
 
new slave, rebuilt master, clutch fluid level is good and the clutch was bleed before putting in the road.

The car shifts smoothly without the engine running.

You are referring to the clutch fork pin correct? If thats the case the tranny will need to be pulled, oh joy....
 
I sure hope its not the fork pin for the sake of your nice clean floor....cause you will be popping out the gearbox.
I was suggesting that the slave cyl has no support rod , but the early cars had one (and no troubles)and that the adjustable rod from an early car can be of help....once modified.
MD(mad dog)
 
Dan:

I hate to add a vote to clutch pin, but those are the same symptoms my TR6 started exhibiting last fall.

Just pulled the trans in the last month and it was a broken clutch pin.

Two things to check. First, make sure you are getting ~5/8 inch of movement at the slave cylinder. If you are, then try moving the clutch pushrod into the top hole in the arm ... If it shifts a little better into reverse or first I think the pin is your culprit.

Good luck, the most difficult part of the task to me is pulling out your interior.

Matt
 
If it shifts fine in the off position. Bad news!
 
I would confirm that hydraulics are not the problem before tearing things apart.
My first TR6 had the slave cylinder mounted on the wrong side of the mounting plate and the DPO added an extension to the rod to make up for the lost throw length. It went smoothly into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th. 1st and reverse were a different story.
Getting all the trapped air out of the system can be a real problem. It could easily show the same symptoms you are experiencing.
 
Sounding VERY familiar!!

I too installed a new clutch master and slave cylinder
setup. Installed new, braided, stainless steel hydraulic
lines. Even when to the trouble of installing new differential mounts.

I tried <span style="color: #990000">everything </span> before I ripped out the car interior and pulled the tranny. Guess what
I found? A sheared off taper pin.

When ya replace the taper pin - use this thru-bolt concept:
You will never again have a busted taper pin.

regards,

dale

clutchbarmods.jpg
 
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