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TR6 tr6 rocker and floor replacement --?s and pictures

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J

jackag91

Jedi Warrior
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I started working on the rockers and floors. I got one set of rockers and the floorboard off.

side.jpg


It took a while but I am pretty happy with the result.

I was going to put that side back together before I move on to the other side, but first I need some help with some questions:

1. The inner and outer rockers are different lenghts. Due to the shape, it looks like there are 3 points that you could use as a point to base thier relative positions.

Should the rockers match on the a)front edge, b) rear edge or c) the curve just in front of the front door pilar?

2. I am sill having some trouble trying to get the rockers to go into place (just holding them in place with a pair of vice grips)

If you look at this picture is there anything I didn't remove that needs to be removed? (Please ignore the rust, that is tomorrows effort)

rear.jpg


Thanks

Jack
 
It looks like you are not the first person to fix the B post. I would definately put in weld some patch panels on the inner fender and wheel well while you have easy access. I believe the sequence that I put my car back together was inner sill first, then the floorpan, then the outer sill, and finally the sill caps. The last thing I welded was the brackets to connect the body to the frame. My body was still on the frame, so I had an easier time aligning everything. One thing you may want to consider is holding off welding the outer sill because you will want to check the door gaps, and with your setup you can do that now. I wasn't too particular lining everything up, but I did put together everthing before hand holding it together with vise grips and cleco's before I started welding.

If you do a search in the archives, I posted a thread or two on this subject and posted some pics.
 
Looks good, that is about what I have in store as well. Please keep us posted how it goes aligning all 3 parts together. I thought it was only recommended to replace one at a time. If your method works out well I would much rather do mine in the same manner.

Good Luck
 
Thanks Alpha, I will do a search.

CRJ, I always heard the same thing but I mine were rusted pretty badly and I couldn't figure out how to take one off with out taking them all off.

The first 90% of the removal went fine. It was that last 10% that took all of the effort.

Also what kind of sheet metal did you use to make your patch panel?
 
I have a nice large sheet of 18 gauge (cold rolled, I think, I told the metal shop that I bought it from that I wanted the softer version (hot or cold rolled)), 4x10 ft it was the only size I could buy it in other than at Home Depot. I could have bought about 2 sq ft from depot or the 4x10 for the same price.

I think it was around $80.00. I also bought a $25.00 metal brake from el cheapo Harbor freight and it has made making bends much simpler than the vise and or hammer and angle iron.
 
I also used 18 guage steel. This pic was taken prior to removing the lower rear section of the rear of the b post, and about 3 inches of the trailing end of the inner sill. The passenger sill was left in place while the entire drivers side sill was replaced
162203-B-post.JPG
 
I go to a local steel/metal fab shop and instead of buying large sheets, I pick up pieces around the the fabrication shop left from the sheering press. They charge practically nothing for "scraps" and noticed I get better deals if I show cash instead of CC or check. Same deal at the lumber mills, cash is always a better deal.

We also have a surplus shop here where I buy thicker pieces (up to a couple of inch blocks or just 1/4 plate) and pay 35 cents per pound.

For $80 I could but enough to build a go-cart!
 
THanks for all of the help.

I just bolted down the floorboard and tried to fit it to the body just to see how it would go and if I needed to clean it up abit.

Here are some pictures.

the front outside
floorfit2.jpg


the rear inside

floorfit1.jpg
 
Looks good.
Please keep the pics coming.
I think a few of us are vicariously rebuilding our cars; and before long I will be doing it for real, maybe.
 
Here is part of my Bpost lower steel patch. This photo was taken prior to welding during the rough fit.

It looks like your lower bpost is really hacked up
 

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How come your new floors are silver. the new pieces I have in my storage area are black????
 
Well, the bracing I used wasn't good enough and lower part of the b-post is torqueing in. And like an idiot, I left the doors in Dallas.

So I have to run back to Dallas and grab the doors. before I can finish putting it back together.

Other than that, it is going very slowly but fairly smoothly. I got the inner rocker on the floorboard and it seems to fit OK.

I will keep you guys updated on my progres next week.

Jack

Oh, DNK, the parts are black, they just look silver with my cell phones camera.
 
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