TR6 TR6 - Rear Wheel Alignment?

[Steve1970]

hmmmm.. can't find anything in the archives on this...

if you are looking at a car from the back, you should see that the tires appear aligned like this: ||

mine look slightly more angled like this: /\

would a rear wheel alignment address this issue? or does the suspension need to be shimmed somehow?

thanks! -Steve

 

[LastDeadLast]

It might if the negative camber isn't too bad. Most likely your springs are getting weak, which is a common ailment of these cars.

Adjusting the rear camber on these cars can be a time comsuming process. You need different combinations of trailing arm brackets to make the adjustments. Or Richard Good (www.goodparts.com) makes adjustable trailing arm brackets the solve this issue completely.

 

[RonMacPherson]

What shape are the spring seats in? The 6 came with a rubber cushion that fit on the end of the spring, inside the wishbone. TRF/Moss? used to sell aluminum spacers that replaced the rubber for those dialing in the camber. It should be easy enough to raise the vehicle up and inspect inside to see if the seat is there. If not?? I would also check the lower control arm brackets and make sure they are not broken. I also recommend the GoodParts brackets. As the engineering update for replacement of shims (which can be quite lengthy getting the proper shim stack) You get to adjust your camber by turning a bolt. The brackets are stronger and less prone to splitting. Also make sure your bushings for the contol arm are in good shape.

When the springs "settle" you usually get a very bouncy rear ride, similar to a 126 Mercedes with the rear hydro suspension that has gone south.

 

[RobT]

Not to disagree with Ron, but the shims have more of an impact on the toe-in/out. You can adjust the camber using the Goodparts brackets, or by flipping the existing brackets.

Here is a guide to the camber adjustments from orientating the brackets, courtsey of Buckeye Triumphs:

https://web.archive.org/web/2003063014451...AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

As I recall, I reduced my camber by 1.5 deg by flipping the inside brackets.

Rob.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Rob is correct, shims are for toe, messing with the brackets are for camber.

 

[TR3driver]

IMO, if you are going to try to adjust the rear camber, you should get the ride height correct first. They are definitely inter-related, to the extent that correcting ride height will likely correct the camber as well. Replacing the spring seats might be all that's required (especially since new ones appear to be somewhat thicker than orginals).

A small amount of negative rear camber (in at the top) is normal with the car 'laden' (which as I recall means several hundred pounds in the seats and more in the trunk). Here's a copy of the factory bulletin that gives the spec, as well as mentioning the shims that Ron was talking about :
https://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/technical/75-f-1.htm

Here's also a nice drawing of the adjustable brackets from Goodparts :
https://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/index.php?menu=S&page=99&s_wt=1152&s_ht=864

 

[RomanH]

Most likely you will need to replace the trailing arm bushings. I would do this before I did any of the other items mentioned. BTW I do like my GoodParts adjustable brackets.

 

[Steve1970]

man, it all looks so old under there, i might as well do it all at once (brackets, springs, bushings, etc). thanks to all.. i'll work on getting on order together

 

[piman]

Hello all,

the spec mentioned above is basically when the car has a driver and passenger. Certainly, from memory, when the cars were relatively new they had visible negative camber and I would not worry too much unless it is excessive. As mentioned camber and ride height are related and shimming the spring pan will lift the car and reduce negative camber.
Settled springs however, should not give a bouncy ride, that is indicative of weak dampers not springs.

Alec