• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Rear Suspension

Share this page

I have just joined the forum. Thanks for all the good info on replacing the springs and bushings. For those of you who have used the adjustable trailing arm brackets. Does this make more sense than paying an alignment shop to experiment with changing brackets and shims, or should I just go back with the way it came apart with the chance it may be close? Thanks for your opinions. BTW, this is just a Sunday driver!
 
If your alignment was correct with the current shims, they should be fine when you replace with the standard brackets. Mine was and I knew that ahead of time, so that is what I went with.

Hindsight being 20/20, I would have bought the GoodParts adjustable versions and installed them so that the alignment shop could tweak it in easily.

And welcome to the forums.
 
Towbiz..... welcome to the forum. As Brosky pointed out, the shims just do the alignment while the brackets do the camber. Nothing changes with the trailing arm kit. It's just much easier to adjust camber with the kit. You still need the shims for alignment. Having said that....the kit does make camber adjustment a snap.
 
Hi, I didn't see any one mention this but a trick my brother showed me(he's a professional industrial mechanic) when pressing in the rubber bushings is to smear a light coat of dish detergent on the rubber. You'll be amazed at how easily they will slip right in. I did this when I was pressing in the rubber bushings on the front suspension of my Jag.
 
jackag91 said:
It's not hard to do, but since you will be taking a lot of the car apart, I would recommend getting the most out of it.



10. Consider a grease fitting on the half axles.


I am sure there are others.
Click to expand...


Jachag91, could you explain a bit more about the grease fitting on the axles? I have heard of people installing a grease fitting to lube some of the suspension bushings so they don't squeak, but I am a bit confused as to how you would do it for the axles........
 
Aldwyn,
I think I'm doing exactly what you are looking to get done. All my rear suspension bushings look original and dry rotted. I just got all my T/A poly bushings yesterday from BPNW and have an appointment with my mechanic to have them installed tomorrow (Friday) morning. He told me to plan on 2 hours. This is one of those jobs I just don't care to squat for hours in my own garage when it's much quicker to have done professionally on a lift. I'll let you know how long it takes.
.
 
Aldwyn said:
Stirkle,

Any update on how long it took your mechanic to do the job?
Click to expand...

When we started to do the T/A bushings, I didn't need them. The PO had already done everything but the shock links. Apparently he had planned on replacing the worn out shock links so he left the old bushings on them. I got new ones last week and put them on in my garage. It's a simple job, a little over an hour for both sides.

I read where Chad(speed6)on the 6-pack says he knows how to do the T/A bushings without taking the arms off the car. You should ask him to explain. Sorry that I didn't get to get pictures of it done for you, but I'm not sorry for me that they had already been replaced by my PO.

.
 
Back
Top