• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Rear gearbox mount replacement

mrv8q

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
One of the "easy" things I wanted to do on the '74 TR6 was replace the rear gearbox mounts... they were pretty cruddy, and I wanted to change them before installing the new plastic gearbox cover(s). I used TRF mounts, w/ no surprises, although I wished TRF supplied 4 new nuts w/ the new mounts...

All in all, not too horrible a job. The Bentley says to remove the exhaust pipes; there was no way I was going to do that! Here's a pic of the gearbox brace out of the car:

IMG_0607.jpg


A pretty sad state, lots of accumulated grease.

This is a job one person can do, but with a lot of back and forth under the car. The hardest part was placing and keeping a stubby 9/16 on top of the gearbox brace, and removing the 4 nuts from underneath.

I found it impossible to remove just the rubber mounts; I needed to remove the whole brace. I removed the top "half" first, and then the hard part, the "lower" half.

Surprising to me, the the "bottom" half is actually two pieces bolted together; I imagine easier to initially assemble.... that's how I did it.


IMG_0608.jpg


The next two shots are of the completed job:

IMG_0609.jpg


IMG_0610.jpg


Here's a sad bolt: the one not missing from the bottom half. This side was on the passenger side of the brace, "barely" hanging on to a tab that helps hold the exhaust pipes.

Tomorrow I'll install 4 new Nylocs for the driveshaft u-joint, change the gear oil, and mark off one more small thing done. Next, the carbs, especially the leaky rear one...

I found this a satisfying mechanical job; just figuring out how it was assembled, and then tackling it. What was most helpful was having lots of stubby and regular sized wrenches and Gearwrenches.....
 
mrv8q said:
Tomorrow I'll install 4 new Nylocs for the driveshaft u-joint, change the gear oil, and mark off one more small thing done. Next, the carbs, especially the leaky rear one...

If it were me, I wouldn't be using Nyloc nuts to hold the U-joint onto the rear of the tranny. Way too much stress in this area for a Nyloc. I would use at least #8 bolts and the #8-quality all-metal locking nuts, along with a drop or two of red Loctite liquid on each bolt before cinching it all up.
 
TR6BILL said:
If it were me, I wouldn't be using Nyloc nuts to hold the U-joint onto the rear of the tranny. Way too much stress in this area for a Nyloc.

Thanks, Bill, will do......
 
Good thing you replaced this mount as it will also cause a mis-alignment of the drivetrain and cause a very bad vibration which can be misunderstood to be in the front end.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif
1972 TR6
1959 TR3A
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] What was most helpful was having lots of stubby and regular sized wrenches and Gearwrenches.....[/QUOTE]

Ahhh yes, indeed. Sears just had a nice half price sale on those lovely Gearwrenches. I have the regular length and on the next sale will have the stubbies. The 1/2" stubby works great around the carbs. That one I do have, but now I want the set.
 
Not quite the same I believe, but similar. A real GearWrench (it's a brand name) has a pawl, but very fine teeth (72 steps).
https://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/wrenches/ratcheting/combination/

BTW, I picked up a set of cheap imitations at Horrible Freight and wished I hadn't. Much thicker, so they won't get into tight places as easily; and harder to turn. IMO the genuine GearWrenches are worth the price. (Oddly enough, Sears used to sell GearWrench brand for less than Craftsman; apparently because the warranty terms aren't as generous.)
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] I would use at least #8 bolts and the #8-quality all-metal locking nuts, along with a drop or two of red Loctite liquid on each bolt before cinching it all up. [/QUOTE]

Holy cow, I'm buying stock in Loctite! $12.99 for .32 oz of Loctite Gel! Poop Boys was out of the regular Red.....I'm still smarting!
 
The domed metal locknuts, and proper shanked bolts, have always worked for me. I use Loctite in many places, but not here.

Note that the nuts do wear out (tho not as fast as Nylocs do), and take the bolts with them. I replace both nut & bolt after a dozen or so cycles.
 
Back
Top