• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Question..ammeter

prb51

Luke Skywalker
Country flag
Offline
Gents, I just put an alternator on the TR3 and rewired (advance auto) the complete headlight circuit.
I've a working early TR6 ammeter that I will use in place of the stock unit.
Were these rated at 60 amps?
 
FWIW, it's not difficult to add a shunt on the back of the stock TR3 ammeter, to increase it's full scale reading. I did exactly that, many years ago when I converted to a 60 amp Ford alternator.

You'll need to experiment a bit to get the right shunt value. I originally used steel "handy" wire for my shunt, and added strands across the ammeter terminals until the reading for the headlights was roughly 1/2 what it was before. That worked well for a long time, but when I redid the dash, I replaced it with a length of 16 AWG copper. ISTR I started with about 1 foot, and gradually shortened it to about 5" or so, to get the desired ratio.

BTW, stock TR3 generator only rated for 19 amps. Early TR6 alternator was almost twice that, at 36 amps. In theory it could drive the ammeter slightly beyond full scale, but that won't hurt anything. They aren't exactly precision instruments /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
Randall,
For some reason I thought the TR6 gauge would be about 60 amps, oh well.
Ok, exactly how do I shunt the original gauge? From your quick description it sounds like you shunted across the pos/neg on the gauge and experimented with wire length/thickness to get an approx. 1/2 value.
Help...
 
prb51 said:
From your quick description it sounds like you shunted across the pos/neg on the gauge and experimented with wire length/thickness to get an approx. 1/2 value.

That's it exactly. Inside the ammeter is just a small coil of heavy copper wire; what you are doing is trying to match the resistance of that coil so that 1/2 the current flows through your shunt, and 1/2 through the ammeter.

Way back when, I tried measuring the ammeter resistance and came up with 1.2 milliohms, which would be 3.5" of 16AWG copper. However in practice the shunt needed to be higher than that, perhaps because of contact resistance at the ammeter terminals. Since I had the early ammeter with the clamp-type terminals, it was easy to start long and keep trimming until I got it close enough to suit me. I took it loose from the panel and let it hang on the wires while I picked the shunt.

(Really, it doesn't need to be all that accurate. You're only interested in about 5 different readings anyway : no charge, charge a little, charge a lot, discharge a little, discharge a lot.)
 
Back
Top