TR6 TR6 Propellor shaft question

[mrv8q]

On a '74 TR6, is it possible to disengage the prop shaft, w/o pulling the exhaust? Specifically, I have a Monza exhaust, which looks like it's solidly welded throughout, no clamps to disengage. I'm looking to change out the U-joints. TIA....

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

I have a 74 TR6. Recently, I had a U-joint go bad. It might be possible to not, but I dropped the entire exhaust to get the drive shaft out. I don't think you can get to the transmission side bolts with the exhaust in the way. I tried only removing the tail end and rear intermediate pipes, but ended up also removing the front intermediate pipes -leaving only the down pipes on.

Good luck.

 

[swift6]

You might be able to access the front u-joint from above if you remove the transmission cover. Getting to the differential attachment shouldn't be a problem. You might be able to get to all the nuts and bolts this way. But no guarantee that you can still pull the drive-shaft out without seeing the particulars up close, the exhaust could still interfere with that.

 

[TheSearcherMan]

If you find a way to get the driveshaft out of an overdrive car without removing the differential or transmission, please let me know how you did it, ok? To get the axel bolts out on the right side would be almost impossible without removing the stock exhaust system. You will need to take both axels loose to get the diff. out of the car. I don't know about non OD cars. PS, why don't you just buy a Bentley manual?

 

[mrv8q]

PS, why don't you just buy a Bentley manual?

Got one, just hoping against hope that one of the mechanically gifted here on the forum had neat trick up their sleeves.....

 

[DNK]

Th "B" manual has a lot but not ALL

 

[RonMacPherson]

Time for some cutting. Don't despair, Brosky showed us some very nice exhaust clamps that I plan on using next time I have to cut my exhaust. Ask Paul or do a search on 'em...

 

[LastDeadLast]

Here ya go:

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=65710

-s

 

[DNK]

Shannon, I saw those in Moss's last flyer. Are you sure they are the ones Mr. Rego is using. I thought they looked a little different.

 

[LastDeadLast]

Don,

I don't think this is exactly what Paul is using, but they're all pretty much the same thing. I had actually tried using the bands with my setup and could never get them to really hold tight enough. Also, aside from the Moss units, I've never been able to find them to go under 2", but again I'm not sure what Brosky is using.

I ended up using a "v-band" clamp from Burns Stainless which is vastly superior to the band clamps in holding power. The only drawback is they have to be welded on.

 

[BobbyD]

Here's a couple of options that I wish I had discovered before installing my exhaust.

The banded ones are from Jegs.com and cost $10 each but 2" pipe is the smallest diameter available.

The others are from BurnsStainless.com but are pretty prices at $85 each and the end pieces require welding.

Either option makes taking the exhaust apart a pretty easy deal.

 

[Brosky]

I use the big one above for my header to collector pipe and the smaller new Moss units will be installed as soon as the engine is done. The others that I bought earlier are just a hair to big and do not seal completely.

 

[LastDeadLast]

I use the ones from Burns that BobbyD just posted about. Nice, NICE items. I can take off the exhaust and reinstall it in 20 minutes total. They seal great and will NOT move once tightened down. Highly recommended if you can spare the $$.

Great for goofballs like myself that need to take out their gearbox 17 times in two years.

-s

 

[DNK]

https://www.burnsstainless.com/Hardware/Clamps/clamps.html