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TR6 TR6 oil loss/usage

towbiz

Freshman Member
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OK guys, I need some advice. I have a 74 TR6. It is using/lossing enough oil to foul plugs on #4 & #5 in 100 miles, the rest of the plugs look great. The motor was built about 2,000 miles ago. New rings not pistons. Head has been check for cracks, surfaced and a valve job. Pulled plug #4 after a drive last week, wet oil around the plug and head. Could this be an emmisions system issue, or more likely a bad ring job? One additional thing. There is oil residue on the rear of the car. I welcome any and all feedback. Thanks in advance.
 
What did the valve job comprise? New valves and/or guides, or just grinding the valves, or ??? A warm compression test might give you some idea of how well the rings have seated, but I'm thinking you might be getting oil through the valve guides. Do you see blue smoke from the tailpipe? If so, when: on acceleration or during "overrun"?

More questions than answers at the moment...sorry!
 
Did the oil burning just start recently, or right after the ring/valve job, or before that?

Have you tried running with the tube from the rocker cover temporarily disconnected?

Unfortunately, I think damaged rings/cylinder walls are more likely to be the problem; generally bad valve guides won't burn that much on a stock TR motor. But it certainly makes sense to investigate all the other possibilities first.
 
Thanks Guys. It was a heavy oil user prior to the OH. It currently will use a qt. in 250 miles. I just removed the auxillary overhead oiler to see if it has an effect. I will also try the breather line to the valve cover after this to see what effect it has.
 
towbiz said:
I just removed the auxillary overhead oiler to see if it has an effect.
I was wondering if you might have had one of those fitted. From most everything I've read they are, at best, redundant and virtually useless; at worst, the potential for more harm than good!
 
Do you have a different valve cover than stock too?
 
towbiz said:
I just removed the auxillary overhead oiler to see if it has an effect.
Ah. I'm guessing you will find that it has a huge effect; which means the problem is the valve guides (combined with the oiler). You may even find that the problem disappears entirely with the oiler removed.
 
Andrew Mace said:
at worst, the potential for more harm than good!
Yeah, like this:

BrokenTR3piston.jpg
 
Yes it does have a cast alum. aftermarket valve cover. I do have the original. Thanks again to all for the feedback
 
That's one of your problems. The use of the Al. cover with the oiler hose = hi oil use as found by a lot of owners
 
when you put rings in did you hone the cylinders? did you check them to see if they were round? putting new round rings in ovaled cylinders would leave room for lots of oil to get past them, IMHO

Hondo
 
As much as I would rather not, I will put thr OEM valve cover on. The cylinders were honed, I just don't know if they were miched.
 
Towbiz, (what is your name)
The reason I asked is there is no baffle to the outlet on those covers. Many have made baffles for them and used them.
Before you put the OEM back on monitor the oil use after the oiler is replaced. The 2 in combo make a nasty mess.
With Paul's OK (hopefully here is his intake after using the Al. cover

Dang. I can't find it. I'll see if I can get Paul to post it
 
If this won't show you the way, nothing will. That line is gone from my new engine.

That's pure Valvoline VR1 coming out of there.
 

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Thanks Don, my name is Jim McFarland, I'm about 30 miles out of Nashville TN. I have removed the line, I'm going to bump up to NGK BP5EY plugs, I have been runing BP7 and I now realize they are colder than needed.
 
Sorry about being late getting back to you. I had the aluminum cover AND the oil line, which just made matters worse. It's either one or the other, but not both together.

Anyone want to buy a black aluminum valve cover?
 
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