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TR6 TR6 Header question part 2

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bigbadbluetr6

bigbadbluetr6

Jedi Trainee
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If you recently rememeber I asked a question about the header on my TR6. Over the weekend I tried to remove the bolts from the bottom of the header(stock) and had no success getting the bolts loose. So I was wondering if there was an easy way to get those bolts off? I put some penatrating oil on them but still couldn't get them loose. Any help would be awesome. thanks guys
 
Is there an easy way?

No.

Some have suggested heating the nuts cherry red and quenching with PB Blaster, lather, rinse, repeat.... Even try tightening it after this treatment... any amount of movement in either direction is a good start.
 
Brake fluid is an excellent penetrating oil. Put some on the top side of the flange where the threaded holes come through. That will allow it to seep downward. Let is sit over night. Be careful not to get any on any painted surface. It's also good at removing paint.
Try this several times along with some heat after soaking. They will come out eventually.
 
I've found the same thing with Automatic Transmission Fluid and it doesn't spoil paint like brake fluid. I had a stuck adjuster wedge in a brake cylinder and I soaked it for a couple of weeks in a jar of ATF before I could break it free (and after the new one arrived in the mail of course)
 
Fast way: Twist them off and remove the header. Then you can get the studs out by drilling out, easy out etc. (easer drilling via drill press if you have one). You will have to replace the studs, washers and nuts anyway. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Eric,
If you are interested, I have the cast iron stock split exhaust manifold from my 73 TR6. It has been Jet Hot coated and is in very good condition. The bottom four threaded holes are free and clear. I even have a new, unused metal gasket for it. There is a slight crack in the metal between the two exit holes but this is common in these stock manifolds and never affects the performance. I have SS headers on my car now and do not need this stock manifold. Make me a reasonable offer (sucker is heavy so shipping will be a few bucks..).
The split header is for duals. Not sure what year yours is.



Bill
 
Bill
How much do you think it will cost to send that part to Kansas? my car is a 73 as well. I'm gonna see car guys this thursday so I'll talk to them about this and see what they have to say.

Does everyone else think this part failing is a good enough reason to just replace the header or even rebuild the whole engine?
 
Eric, not sure what you are saying --- does your engine need to be rebuilt? That is certainly a personal choice. Now, on the manifold I have, it functions well. The steel pipe for the water running through the body of the header is rather corroded but still intact, no leaks, seals nicely. I was under the impression that you just had ruined studs that needed to be removed or retapped. I can't tell you what to do with your engine, sounds as if your local buddies can help advise. If you are doing a rebuild, you might consider even going to SS headers. Just some thoughts..


Bill
 
I was just kidding around about the engine rebuild but that is something I want to do in the future. My dad is getting a supercharge engine built for his Bugeye. I don't know what I'm going to do. I'll figure out tomorrow night about the best way to go about this situation. I know people on here have gave great advice but maybe they will have some other idea.
 
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