TR6 TR6 Head Removal Problems

[pdplot]

When I took off my cylinder head, my expert friend would not let me re-use the old studs. I had to buy new ones. The old ones may stretch and eventually weaken. Cheap insurance.

 

[Scot1966]

When I took off my cylinder head, my expert friend would not let me re-use the old studs. I had to buy new ones. The old ones may stretch and eventually weaken. Cheap insurance.

I have been wondering if I should replace the studs. Can anyone else please offer their two cents on re-using head studs ?

 

[dklawson]

I have been wondering if I should replace the studs. Can anyone else please offer their two cents on re-using head studs ?

I was told to carefully examine the threaded ends of the studs looking for damage and/or necking. If either is present, replace the stud. That same person told me that if the old factory studs are in good shape to re-use them in preference to the new studs that are available today. The argument was that the old studs were higher quality to start with than the modern parts. You may consider that hearsay as it is not based on my personal experience.

I am currently rebuilding the 1500 for our Spitfire and found I needed to replace 2 of its studs. The replacement studs were shorter with more thread relief on one end but otherwise appeared like the originals. (The length issue was NOT that I ordered short studs to replace the long ones... these were new short studs that were shorter than the old short studs). I have not fitted the head so I cannot offer any personal observation about whether the new studs are of acceptable length and of suitable quality.

 

[PAUL161]

If soaking in a penetrating type concoction for a while and nothing happens, I always smack the ends of the studs/bolts to shock them. Not hard enough to break anything naturally, but shocking the threads repeatedly will sometimes let them break loose. If you can't get a hammer on them, use a steel drift pin and strike it. Same effect. PJ

 

[Scot1966]

I was told to carefully examine the threaded ends of the studs looking for damage and/or necking. If either is present, replace the stud. That same person told me that if the old factory studs are in good shape to re-use them in preference to the new studs that are available today. The argument was that the old studs were higher quality to start with than the modern parts. You may consider that hearsay as it is not based on my personal experience.

I am currently rebuilding the 1500 for our Spitfire and found I needed to replace 2 of its studs. The replacement studs were shorter with more thread relief on one end but otherwise appeared like the originals. (The length issue was NOT that I ordered short studs to replace the long ones... these were new short studs that were shorter than the old short studs). I have not fitted the head so I cannot offer any personal observation about whether the new studs are of acceptable length and of suitable quality.

Thanks Doug, I have had similar experiences with replacement parts these days. I am leaning towards examining the threads on the original studs, and if the threads look ok, I will put the originals back in.

Thanks, Scot

 

[steveg]

Reviving an old thread.

For me, prying on the rear head nut and running the starter with the valves closed didn't seem to do much and I didn't want to do the 'rope trick'.

I made these pieces from scraps of 3" x 3" x 1/4" steel angle . The large bolts on top are 1/2-20 x 1.5" tapped into the angle. The pieces are bolted up to the exhaust studs and the 1/2" bolts are tightened down on the head studs to break the head loose. I used the 8" C-clamp to keep the angle from bending away. Once the head broke loose, it's relatively easy to separate the head from the block with the bolts. In the lower picture, I used my 12lb lead hammer to strike the side of the angle which had the effect of shocking the bolt on the stud.

I was able to remove all studs except those aligning with the 1/2" bolts. Kroil invaluable here.

A full length angle with bolts for every head stud would be even better - wouldn't require the C-clamp to keep it from bending.

 

[Madflyer]

I guess the best way to get something done when all has failed is this web site. What will be your next sticking point we are ready. I got in to late I would have offered brass shims and a dead blow hammer. And there is a tool called a stud extractor for installing and removing studs when that time comes in stead of two nuts. Madflyer

 

[steveg]

I guess the best way to get something done when all has failed is this web site. What will be your next sticking point we are ready. I got in to late I would have offered brass shims and a dead blow hammer. And there is a tool called a stud extractor for installing and removing studs when that time comes in stead of two nuts. Madflyer

Madflyer -

This forum, like the Healey forum is a great repository of information.

I did my due diligence and tried the others' techniques above except for the 'rope trick' without success. Maybe brass wedges would work, but my problem was the head was stuck - it didn't separate at all - no room to insert a brass wedge. Hitting the head with my 12 lb lead hammer didn't loosen it either.

These angle pieces not only provide for easy positive separation of head from block, but the setup made it easy to lift the head off with a come-along.

The double-nut method plus Kroil worked fine for removing the studs without any thread damage. About half of them just came out when I undid the head nuts. The others I used the stock nut plus a jamb nut and two 12" crescent wrenches - one to turn the lower large nut and another to keep the jamb nut tight, keeping everything soaked with Kroil.

Once the head was removed I used the same technique on the 2 remaining studs.

The stud remover tools on Amazon don't look up to the job.

Typical thread after cleaning:

 

[titanic]

Also, after disassembly, clean the unthreaded part of the stud and apply a coat of anti-seize compound. Removing the head will be much easier next time.
Berry

 

[steveg]

Also, after disassembly, clean the unthreaded part of the stud and apply a coat of anti-seize compound. Removing the head will be much easier next time.
Berry

:eagerness: you bet!

 

[Scot1966]

Reviving an old thread.

For me, prying on the rear head nut and running the starter with the valves closed didn't seem to do much and I didn't want to do the 'rope trick'.

I made these pieces from scraps of 3" x 3" x 1/4" steel angle . The large bolts on top are 1/2-20 x 1.5" tapped into the angle. The pieces are bolted up to the exhaust studs and the 1/2" bolts are tightened down on the head studs to break the head loose. I used the 8" C-clamp to keep the angle from bending away. Once the head broke loose, it's relatively easy to separate the head from the block with the bolts. In the lower picture, I used my 12lb lead hammer to strike the side of the angle which had the effect of shocking the bolt on the stud.

I was able to remove all studs except those aligning with the 1/2" bolts. Kroil invaluable here.

A full length angle with bolts for every head stud would be even better - wouldn't require the C-clamp to keep it from bending.

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This is a great idea Steve !