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TR6 TR6 Handling

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SCguy

SCguy

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On my TR6 I have Goodparts lowering springs, nylatron bushings and Goodparts swaybars. I'm also running a slightly lower profile tire. I sometime feel like I wish I could try driving my car with the original suspension set up. I feel like possibly I've done too much and lost some of the comfort of my car. Possibly I'd be happier crusing with a stock set-up. Ever want to drive someone else's TR just to compare. Anyone local to Cofax, near Auburn, CA?

a few rambling thoughts today.... Tom when are you going to bring a TR up to Sac?
 
Larry, I feel the same about my Wedge. Lately it seems a bit "buck boardish"
 
Larry, I'd love to come up your way sometime, though I'm not sure my car would be a good comparison at the moment (I think my lever shocks need some attention). I wish I would have come up that way before you sold your TR8 though! I'll keep you posted when I get them (the shocks) in order.
 
SC guy, I know what you're talking about. I've learned the hard way that for most of us who do not drive these cars aggressively, an essentially stock suspension setup is the way to go.

I restored a Triumph GT6 a few years ago and "upgraded" the suspension with adjustable air shocks, poly bushes all around, stiffer front springs, etc. It rode like a darn truck! Bone-jarring, bumpy ride, even on smooth city streets. I kept it that way because I knew I was going to sell it. And, I've driven and ridden in several GT6s with stock suspension setups and the ride was in no way harsh or excessively bumpy.

Regarding TR-6s, a "stock" (or as close to stock as we can get with modern replacement parts) Triumph TR-6 rides surprisingly smoothly: takes potholes/bumps nicely; moderate body roll (about what you'd expect) and a smooth, even ride on the highway.

Similarly, I just finished a total restoration of my 1974 MG Midget's suspension with "stock" suspension replacement components including all new rubber bushes; trunnions; sway bar (1/2"); rebuilt lever shocks; new steering rack; new leaf springs, etc., the whole works as close to original as I could get for each component. Again, the car rides <span style="text-decoration: underline">surprisingly</span> smoothly, absorbs road bumps darn nearly as well as a modern car. It also handles very well, even by modern standards (well, <span style="font-style: italic">almost</span>).

TR-6s did not have highly aggressive suspension setups from the factory. A quick look at the original suspension components will verify this to you. Stiff, maybe, but not harsh. Nice, semi-aggressive road car, that's the idea.

I hate a stiff suspension setup on a street car. Unless you intend to race or thrash the car, go back to a more stock setup, you'll be glad you did.

My tuppence worth, I hope it's helpful.
 
vagt6 said:
....I've driven and ridden in several GT6s with stock suspension setups and the ride was in no way harsh or excessively bumpy...
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I think I've told the story before, but back in the late 1970s, I had a completely stock GT6+, save for Koni shocks (usually set only a "notch" above full soft) and 175/70R13 tires. I once gave my neighbor a 20-mile ride to his Buick dealer to pick up his car from servicing, and that neighbor commented several times on how smooth and comfortable the ride in the GT was!

I think Triumph intentionally spec'd out US-bound GT6s to be a somewhat softer ride, perhaps befitting the "Gran Touring" philosophy of the car. (But I still did pretty well over the years autocrossing that virtually stock GT!)
 
I think the modern low profile tires give a harsh ride on the TR6 mostly because the suspension design isn't tuned for those tires.
Last year I changed the 60 series tires on my TR6 and installed 205-75R's which have a much higher profile; the car looks far better in my opinion since it fills the wheel well, but the ride improved noticably with no apparent negative handling (but then I use my modern sports car for racing round corners at high speed). Just my thoughts.
 
CinneaghTR said:
I am in the process of rebuilding the front suspension on the 4A. I went with rubber bushings and Konis (I'm starting full soft and plan to adjust as I go along, Andy...). I am looking forward to seeing how the car drives.
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Jeremy - That's the exact same rebuild I did on mine about 6 years ago. Couldn't be more satisfied and I've not felt the need to go to a firmer setting on the Konis. I chose rubber bushings because I wanted to duplicate the ride on my first TR4A. I should point out that I was initially disappointed but that was my failure to recognize that the steering rack's inner tie rod ends had play which allowed a lot of vibration and jiggling to be transferred back through the steering wheel.
 
Opinion:

Set your car up stock in you really want to experience the car as it was in the day. So many seem to want a car as original as possible, especially in the little things such as dash knobs, trim, and all the other minutia, but then want to upgrade the engine performance and handling, only to drive the car gently on occasion and back and forth to the car show, never taking avantage of the upgrades.

IMHO, you should choose what you are looking for from the car and proceed with that in mind: trailer queen/show car, race car, daily driver, or a hobby to constantly work on.

This is just my opinion and I don't mean to step on any toes. I have no problem with what anyone wants out of the car. Pretty cars are pretty cars and I love to look at them. Powerful, good handling rides that will pull your hat off when you step on them are great fun, if you are where you can use them, not so much if you aren't (had a couple of those so I know).

Mine was new and pretty, once, but will never be again. Neither will I, unfortunatley. However, I want something I can drive when the mood hits, that if I get caught in the rain, so be it, and if I get stone chips and scratches, it's ok. Not worried about the lumps and bumps or Oooos and Ahhhs, I just want some comfort and a lot of reliablity, and to feel the wind in my face.

That's what I had at 20, and I want to feel 20 again.

I'll let you know how that works out for me. They're here now to take me back to the home. I was outstanding in my field, and thats where they found me, out standing in my field.
 
I have a quite aggressive setup on my Spit; KYB Adjustables in the Rear, Woodhead Struts and Knight Springs up front, and really thick sway bars front and rear. It was fine on Bridgestone Tyres, but soon as I put the Sumito HTR's on there, the ride went to bone jarring stiff.

I really think the tyres (tires w/e) make up 90% of the ride quality.
 
Owning & Driving the same TR6 for 31 yrs I agree the easiest immediate improvement is tires. Fitted with the great looking but horrible as far as handling goes hard as a rock compound 185 michelin redlines from the 70's (I might add they were worth there weight cause they lasted 4ever interms of the mileage you got out of a set even worn to near slick condition) the 6 was skiddish, all over the place and took every bump or crack in the road as if riding on cobble stone, as well as a butt puckering episode on certain cambers, continued after suspension rebuild 1990 using rubber bushings, I'd run 30 psi for long distance trips 24 psi/front 26-28 psi/rear local crusin'

Handling got a little better with install of Koni shocks in 80's then tube shock conversion during that time Pirelli made a 185 series tire for Jag, 5" wide 3/8" white wall with pirelli in white at a cut out, I used a tire shop grease type crayon to paint the strip red, got a set of those the difference in handling, ride and grip in cornering was remarkable as it was a softer compound, they only lasted 3 yrs & 20 some thousand miles.

Fast forward to the 90's modern rubber coker classics, looked great on the 6 close to original look of 185's (use to be able to slide 3 fingers between top of tire and front fender well) coker's 5-1/2" wide 205/R78 (strangely same size tire I ran on a '78 Cadi Seville) I could slide 2 fingers in. That was the only change since suspension rebuild but the ride, handling was sustainial both control and comfort. Intended to get another set until I saw and asked owner whether or not a certain 206/70 Redline rubbed when engaged in a full locked turn or rough road cruising. Since 2003 running Redlines (always will on my 6 as long as we're 2gether) spax adjustable's front/rear quick-steer race/rack and Good Parts adjustable trailing arm brackets to maintain negative camber in rear (no leaning in at the top under load or weight nor tipping out at top on certain road cambers, but instead tires remains in vertical position under all driving conditions. Diamondback Tires 205/70/15 allows 2 fingers fit between top of tire and wheel well, 6" of rubber on the ground, softer and at same time gripping ride, no more dreaded squealin' like a stuck pig when an attempt to turn is made period, whether on concrete in a parking garage or sampling a little adrenaline on a autoX, tires definitely the 1st major improvement, but to help insure the life of that investment, one might want to upgrade/rebuild suspension. I'm a more I get, the more I want guy that drives to ride, more than to race/speeding, perfer long distance 70 mph cruisin' and twisty/curvy roads, tried comp, later 6 and a couple other springs, found set near year of my 6 that maintains how it set from factory, so I guess you could say my upgrades remain close to factory then super modified, engine/exhaust not on steroids, suspension/ride not super stiff, TRuly a Passion to Drive a well kept/well maintained 6. Ongoing Luv Affair!
 
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