TR2/3/3A TR6 gearbox in a TR3....Clutch replacement questions?

[karls59tr]

It's time to replace the clutch. I have been using the TR3 pressure plate type that has the "3 levers" (see pic). Anyone on here running a TR6 box in their TR3 and what clutch did you use? Is it even possible to tun a TR6 clutch set up? I do not know if the 3 lever clutch type that I have been using is even available now? I do have a new clutch plate and throw out bearing that goes with that type but not the pressure plate unfortunately.

I see Moss and BPNW sell the Borg and Beck type clutch(this type has the pressure plate with "multiple fingers") they are Back Ordered. Rimmer Bros has the complete clutch kit for the TR3 but would that kit fit my TR6 gearbox? Any thoughts?

 

[Hamish Racing]

Karl I run a tr6 gearbox and A type OD in my TR3a
You need the tr6 clutch pack and the TR3a flywheel drilled and tapped to accept the this pressure plate etc.

You’ll need to make sure the rear box mounting is compatible too.

 

[karls59tr]

Karl I run a tr6 gearbox and A type OD in my TR3a
You need the tr6 clutch pack and the TR3a flywheel drilled and tapped to accept the this pressure plate etc.

You’ll need to make sure the rear box mounting is compatible too.

That's odd.....I have been running the TR3 clutch pack for 15 years without any major issues I wonder if anyone else has done the same. I'm not questioning that your setup works.

 

[charleyf]

That's odd.....I have been running the TR3 clutch pack for 15 years without any major issues I wonder if anyone else has done the same. I'm not questioning that your setup works.

+1 on the TR3/4 3 fingered clutch setup for a TR3/4 /250 or 6.
You just need to make sure that you get all of the components to be compatible. So that includes the throwout bearing and carrier.
Charley

 

[karls59tr]

+1 on the TR3/4 3 fingered clutch setup for a TR3/4 /250 or 6.
You just need to make sure that you get all of the components to be compatible. So that includes the throwout bearing and carrier.
Charley

I don't see the 3 fingered clutch set up for sale anywhere ???? Is it still available? Also I saw an old post by Randall (I sure miss his advice on these old TR3's) where he says: " And the clutch slave will need some modification because the TR6 mounting flange is thicker than the original TR3. I kept the original mounting position (bracket on the back of the flange,slave on the front of the bracket) and made up a shorter push rod to suit; But it may have been better to pound the edge of the cover flat and use the TR6 mounting position(bracket on front of flange,slave on back of bracket.) At the time I did not want to take the slave off the line. I also wound up making a little tab to stretch the return spring tighter(to compensate for the shorter push rod) which the other method would have avoided." The end of Randall's quote Here is what confuses me......When he says to pound the edge of the cover flat for the TR6 mounting position what cover is he refering to? What am I missing here...I can't seem to grasp where this cover is and also if the TR6 position is used does that mean you don't have to use a shorter push rod? If I did go with the TR3 mounting position how do I determine how much to shorten the pushrod? I hope this makes sense. Karl

 

[charleyf]

I don't see the 3 fingered clutch set up for sale anywhere ???? Is it still available? Also I saw an old post by Randall (I sure miss his advice on these old TR3's) where he says: " And the clutch slave will need some modification because the TR6 mounting flange is thicker than the original TR3. I kept the original mounting position (bracket on the back of the flange,slave on the front of the bracket) and made up a shorter push rod to suit; But it may have been better to pound the edge of the cover flat and use the TR6 mounting position(bracket on front of flange,slave on back of bracket.) At the time I did not want to take the slave off the line. I also wound up making a little tab to stretch the return spring tighter(to compensate for the shorter push rod) which the other method would have avoided." The end of Randall's quote Here is what confuses me......When he says to pound the edge of the cover flat for the TR6 mounting position what cover is he refering to? What am I missing here...I can't seem to grasp where this cover is and also if the TR6 position is used does that mean you don't have to use a shorter push rod? If I did go with the TR3 mounting position how do I determine how much to shorten the pushrod? I hope this makes sense. Karl

I read and meticulously followed Randall's suggestions about mounting a TR6 tranny to a TR3. This includes using a TR3 clutch set up. As a pic is worth a thousand dollars words here is what the slave cylinder looks like. I used an adjustable rod on the slave and adjusted it to give the required gap.
As to the 3 fingered clutch, just look for the TR3 clutch. That is the three fingered clutch. Try TRF or BPNW.
Charley

 

[karls59tr]

I read and meticulously followed Randall's suggestions about mounting a TR6 tranny to a TR3. This includes using a TR3 clutch set up. As a pic is worth a thousand dollars words here is what the slave cylinder looks like. I used an adjustable rod on the slave and adjusted it to give the required gap.
As to the 3 fingered clutch, just look for the TR3 clutch. That is the three fingered clutch. Try TRF or BPNW.
Charley

Thanks Charley It seems that moss and the others are going with th the Borg and Beck diaphragm type clutch and they are all back ordered.

 

[charleyf]

Thanks Charley It seems that moss and the others are going with th the Borg and Beck diaphragm type clutch and they are all back ordered.

Caution. The two clutch pressure plates are two different diameters. You may need to have the flywheel drilled and tapped with new bolt holes. Check with whomever you buy it from about the difference in bolting pattern. Have you tried TRF and BPNW those guys know what they are talking about. The one you mentioned usually does not know much about TR stuff. And these are different from MG.
Charley

 

[karls59tr]

Caution. The two clutch pressure plates are two different diameters. You may need to have the flywheel drilled and tapped with new bolt holes. Check with whomever you buy it from about the difference in bolting pattern. Have you tried TRF and BPNW those guys know what they are talking about. The one you mentioned usually does not know much about TR stuff. And these are different from MG.
Charley

One last question..... Randall says he actually had to "make up a shorter push rod to suit". Do you recall doing that. How much shorter would the push rod have to be? Karl

 

[charleyf]

One last question..... Randall says he actually had to "make up a shorter push rod to suit". Do you recall doing that. How much shorter would the push rod have to be? Karl

I used a adjustable one and still had to shorten it. Maybe 1/4".
Charley

 

[karls59tr]

I used a adjustable one and still had to shorten it. Maybe 1/4".
Charley

Not sure what you mean by adjustable? how is that different from a regular push rod. You adjust the length by how far you turn the rod in or out?

 

[charleyf]

Not sure what you mean by adjustable? how is that different from a regular push rod. You adjust the length by how far you turn the rod in or out?

Most rods are solid. An adjustable one has threads on the end that connect to the clutch lever. I had to cut some of the threaded end off as it got in the way.

 

[BillyB62]

I have a couple three three fingered clutches in decent shape if anyone is interested.