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TR6 TR6 gas line leak - please help

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ichthos

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There is one problem standing before me driving my TR6 for what is left of the summer - a leaking gas line. I hope someone can help. The pipe that connects the carbs to the fuel pump will not seal at the fuel pump end. I went and bought a new 1/4" compression sleeve at the local hardware to see if that would work, but no matter how tight I get it, when I pull the gas pump lever, I can see fuel squirting out between the fitting and pipe. Can someone offer some suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
Kevin
 
Well, that makes me feel a little better. Are you saying that the big three do not sell the correct sleeves either? I will try you tip and see what happens. Thanks as always Randall.
Kevin
 
ichthos said:
Are you saying that the big three do not sell the correct sleeves either?
Click to expand...
I have not checked recently, but that was the case when I went through this problem myself.

I took a different approach : actually made a new nut for the fuel line. Fun lathe project, but of course not for everyone.
 
A section of fuel line I bought from Moss had what looked to be the correct fitting. That fitting worked where my store-bought fitting had leaked.
Don't know if Moss sells the fittings without the line.
John
 
This fitting will work. I believe I got it a NAPA.
FuelpumpFitting.jpg
 
FWIW,

I just swapped out my fuel pump 2 weeks ago and whent to my local auto parts store and bought 1/4 inch compression fittings off the shelf. I also bought new tubing nuts at the same time. I had no issues with the lines leaking on either side of the pump with the new fittings fitted.

I know that there are a couple of different quality fuel pumps out there for the 6. The one that I replaced was from Taiwan (Cheap) and the tubing nuts definately set alot deeper into the pump. I bought a better quality one (Italian) that is alot heavier and cast more stoutly than the Taiwan pump. I found that the tubing nuts seated less deeply in the Italian pump and tightened up better.

Is it possible that you might have a cracked housing on your pump?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
The good news is that the method Randall mentioned worked. The bad news is that when I got the pipe sealed with the compression fitting, I found that it leaked between the fitting and pump body. I finally pulled the fuel pump and found I messed up the threads. I ran a tap through it to clean it out, but I am not sure if it will be tight engough to seal now. I could use Loctite, but don't know if it will do the job. I do have a used second fuel pump. I have no idea if it works or not. I don't know how easy it would be, but another option would be to swap that part of the fuel pump with mine. Suggestions?
Kevin
 
The threads are not supposed to seal for that fitting; all the sealing should take place between the sleeve, tube and body/nut. So as long as you didn't mess up the tapered seat in the casting, it should seal OK once the threads are cleaned up.

Loctite won't help, IMO, unless you switch to tapered threads. Somewhere, I've got a pump where the DPO forced a fitting with pipe threads into the pump body and got it to seal. Not sure if he ran a pipe tap in first or not. But I would definitely pursue getting the original fitting to work, before taking such a radical step.
 
Kevin, you gonna take one of the LBC's to Portland?
 
Besides the TR6, I have been in Bugeye pergatory all summer. I was sure it would be up and running by the end of July. Every time I think I am almost done, I find another problem. If I finish the Bugeye, I will be there. If not, I will probably be working on Bugeye instead. Will you be there? Are you going to be driving either one of your cars?
Kevin
 
Hopefully the Wedge, weather looks good so far
 
DO IT, Don!!! :laugh:
 
This helped me 8 years later...gotta love the forums. Thanks to all those that posted their experiance and solutions!!
 
I used a dremel tool and cut off a couple of threads. That makes up for the smaller sleeve.Fuel Pump Modification 001.jpg
 
Tush,
I had an Italian pump with a staked pivot pin. Eventually the pin worked through the staking and the pin was lost along the road. I then fitted a chain clevis pin while the pump was still on the car. That worked well until I replaced the pump some time later. I did find it much easier to remove the bolts holding the pump in place if the pin was removed first.
Tom
 
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