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TR6 TR6 gas gauge stopped working
- Thread starter blu76TR6
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dklawson
Yoda
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As Art said/asked above, what is the temperature gauge doing? If it is still working then the problem is not the stabilizer.
If you can access the fuel sending unit (sorry, I don't know where that is on a TR6) the first test is to connect a jumper wire between the green/black wire on the sender and a good ground point on the car's chassis. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and watch the gauge. If it goes to full, the gauge itself is working.
If the gauge went to full during the first test above, remove the jumper on the green/black wire and move it to the black wire connection on the sender (assuming the TR6 sender uses two wires). With the ignition switch in the run position watch to see what the gauge does. If it goes to full, your problem is a bad earth connection via the sender's black wire. If the gauge does NOT go to full this time, you have an internal problem with the sending unit.
If your gauge does not go to full during any of these tests, repeat the ground wire test directly on the back of the gauge. Use your jumper wire between the green/black wire terminal on the back of the gauge directly to a ground point on the car's chassis. With the ignition in the run position, if the gauge does NOT go to full, you have a problem with the fuel gauge itself. If the gauge does go to full, look for a problem in the green/black wire to the sender.
If you can access the fuel sending unit (sorry, I don't know where that is on a TR6) the first test is to connect a jumper wire between the green/black wire on the sender and a good ground point on the car's chassis. Turn the ignition switch to the run position and watch the gauge. If it goes to full, the gauge itself is working.
If the gauge went to full during the first test above, remove the jumper on the green/black wire and move it to the black wire connection on the sender (assuming the TR6 sender uses two wires). With the ignition switch in the run position watch to see what the gauge does. If it goes to full, your problem is a bad earth connection via the sender's black wire. If the gauge does NOT go to full this time, you have an internal problem with the sending unit.
If your gauge does not go to full during any of these tests, repeat the ground wire test directly on the back of the gauge. Use your jumper wire between the green/black wire terminal on the back of the gauge directly to a ground point on the car's chassis. With the ignition in the run position, if the gauge does NOT go to full, you have a problem with the fuel gauge itself. If the gauge does go to full, look for a problem in the green/black wire to the sender.
Bingo, you hit a cord as in reality two gauges stopped working, the fuel and temp. gauge. Where is this voltage stablizer located at. And I do have a repair manual for it so I can look it up as well. This forum rocks!
And thank you Doug for the extensive info as that might be needed......
And thank you Doug for the extensive info as that might be needed......
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John_Mc
Jedi Knight
Offline
And if you don't have this already, a proper wiring guide can make all the difference in sorting these things out:
Advance Auto Wire
Click on "Stock Schematics" on the left hand side, then scroll down and download the TR6 file, then find your model year. The infamous Prince of Darkness actually turns out to be a pretty decent, friendly bloke once you get to know him!
Advance Auto Wire
Click on "Stock Schematics" on the left hand side, then scroll down and download the TR6 file, then find your model year. The infamous Prince of Darkness actually turns out to be a pretty decent, friendly bloke once you get to know him!
dklawson
Yoda
Offline
If you want to "buy" one, get the solid-state one from Moss. No more electro-mechanical stabilizer failures. Their part #131-555.
If you want to make your own, and do this on the cheap. Read my PDF on it. There is also a limited troubleshooting section in it.
https://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/SmithsVoltageStabilizer.pdf
An even easier fix is to follow my friend Wes' simple schematic (after reading my PDF).
https://www.adocars.com/elf-ado/elf/elfimages/v-reg.jpg
The 7810 chip you need is available from Mouser.com for less than a buck (plus shipping).
If you want to make your own, and do this on the cheap. Read my PDF on it. There is also a limited troubleshooting section in it.
https://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/SmithsVoltageStabilizer.pdf
An even easier fix is to follow my friend Wes' simple schematic (after reading my PDF).
https://www.adocars.com/elf-ado/elf/elfimages/v-reg.jpg
The 7810 chip you need is available from Mouser.com for less than a buck (plus shipping).