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TR6 Tr6 fusebox question

roofman

Jedi Knight
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My TR6 has an empty fuse slot at the top of the fuse box. Is there any reason a circut can't be added there for a radio, or other item added?
 
Mine was equipped with A/C, but the top fuse was not used. When I added the extra cooling fan, I used the the top slot in the fuse box to power the relay. You'll need to get power from somewhere, because neither side of the fuse is connected. Here's a picture of mine.
 
Where did you grt the power from?
 
On the right, top side you can see a small red jumper with a lug at enach end. The PO had already changed the order of the wires, and I sorted them out so that the proper ones on the left (supply) went the proper ones on the right (load) while getting the one 2nd from top to be powered when the key is on. The color coding of the wires is difficult to see after all these years (I used a meter to be sure). The lug that had two brown (supply) wires was split into two fuses, with the red jumper connecting them.

The yellow wire on the top right goes to the fan relay. Under that you can see a green and red that enter a black jacket -those are for the CD player (keyed+always hot).

Previous posts recommend a new wire from the battery be run instead of over taxing the switch. -but for all my fan has been on since the added shroud, it could have been left unconnected.
 
Thanks.
 
So to make sure I have this right, I can make a jumper wire and place it on the outside lug, and jumper it up to the top unused fuse space for my cd hookup? Assuming my car is wired correctly, and based on your photo, jumping from the 2nd down up to the top will give me power when key is on only?
 
I would not be surprized if the wiring/fuse order on yours is not the same as mine. The "red/green" only has power to it when the light switch is in either 'on' position. The "brown" (dark brown on mine) always has power. The "white" is switched on/off with the ignition switch. (on mine it looks like a white wire with a brown tracer because it seems to have a drip of somthing on it)

According to the chart in the owners handbook, the white wire sources power to the wipers, temp, fuel, heater etc, the brown is for horn, headlight flasher, hazard, etc the red/green is plate, parking, tail, marker and instrument lamps.

You should already have a white with pink tracer wire from the ignition switch for the stock radio. -I hope this helps.
Jerry
 
Man you guys are good.

The fuses are American BUSS replacements. The LUCAS fuse is supposed to be rated at 35 amps, the BUSS replacement is 20 amps. I think that should be correct, and I haven't had any troubles with fuses blowing when they're not supposed to -or wires melting. -But thanks for pointing it out, I had to go out and double check / compare it to an article about the differences in fuses.

Jerry
 
roofman said:
So to make sure I have this right, I can make a jumper wire and place it on the outside lug, and jumper it up to the top unused fuse space for my cd hookup? Assuming my car is wired correctly, and based on your photo, jumping from the 2nd down up to the top will give me power when key is on only?

Just to make it all easier, never assume that your wiring is stock and correct. These cars have a way of being jury-rigged over the years. Always check every circuit with a lighted circuit tester. The kind with an ice pick end, a light in the middle and an alligator clip ground on the other end. The kind that never fail. All of about 5 bucks.
 
What size wire is best for the jumper wire?
What size fuse should I use in the box for a standard cd player, of course with an inline fuse to the unit?
 
Check out the specs on your CD player to see how much current it draws. Mine actually has two power connections, and the switched one draws almost no power at all. But it can draw something like 10 amps (as I recall) from the unswitched power lead, so I used a 15 amp fuse and 12 AWG wire (which is probably overkill).

I thought you were using the spare position on the fuse block ? So no need for an in-line fuse ?
 
I thought it was common to use a secondary inline fuse, but if i can simply install a 15 amp fuse in the box, i agree probably not needed.
 
There's really no point in having two fuses in series, unless one of them powers more loads than the other does.

But it won't hurt anything to have it there either.
 
Some good advice here Bill, I just want to point out that the always hot input power to the modern radios is for the memory which places a significant discharge current on the battery when the car is not in use. This can be overcome by using a pulse type charger on the battery during the non use time or having all the radio's input power connected to a switched power point. I use both methods on my car when it is not in use.--Fwiw---Keoke
 
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