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TR6 TR6 Fuel Pump Priming

fwtexasbj8

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Having fuel pump issues with my wife's TR6. Drove it last weekend and all of a sudden, it was missing and had no power. It would start and then quickly die with a typical fuel problem. I found the fuel pump inlet tube lose and figured I was getting air into the inlet side of the pump and once I tightened it, expected everything would be resolved but not the case. Ended up getting towed home. I replaced the fuel filter which is installed just ahead of the pump inlet and still no joy. I have loosened both the inlet and exit of the pump and seem to have fuel at both locations but very little at the carburetor inlet. I even limped to the gas station and added 5 gallons of fuel hoping the additional fuel head would prime the pump. I removed the pump today and it feels like the diaphragm is in tact and the pump feels like it is trying to pump in my hand.

I would have thought the mechanical pump would self-prime so can anyone tell me how to prime it? Also, while I had the pump off, I pulled the top dome and found the screen clear, but the clear-white plastic ring around the screen edge was nearly disintegrated and bunched in the bottom of the bowl. With the filter just up stream of the pump, do I really need this screen as I cannot find just the screen from any of the usual suppliers assuming the pump is still good?

Thanks for the help,
Doug
 

bobhustead

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Sounds like the pump is bad. A mechanical pump in good shape will self prime. Apparent performance not on the vehicle can be deceptive. Try putting a barb and hose into the inlet, drop the hose in a gas can, and work it in your hand. This might tell you something. Fuel pressure gauges are inexpensive and useful for testing on the car. I don't think the screen is too important with an upstream filter. Good luck.

Bob
 

trrdster2000

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Sounds like you have a valve that is not closing. There are two valves in that bottom that are one way flow and they do go bad.

Wayne
 

TomMull

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Agree with both above. TRF (and others) have kits and new pumps of high quality but pricey. AC knockoffs (from China?) are becoming quite common and very cheap but I certainly can't recommend them. Perhaps others have an opinion?
Tom
 

Tybalt

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Just noticed that you are in Fort Worth, out of curiosity have you talked with either Jeff Sloan (British Auto Specialist in Haltom City) or Byron Carlson (Sports Car Warehouse in Arlington) about the current supply of fuel pumps and what your choices are in the way of mechanical pumps these days?
 
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fwtexasbj8

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Thanks Tybalt and I know Jeff real well, and in fact has my E-Type right now! I have worked it some more and now believe the pump is fine as I am getting a good stream at both carb inlets. I removed the pump screen as discussed before. Once I figured out the pump was working, I replaced plugs, cap, rotor, points and condenser but still no joy. My quest has now moved to bad plug wires and they should be here later this week as I found removing #6 had no impact on how the engine ran.
 

poolboy

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Did you swap existing wires to see if the 'problem' followed the #6 wire ?
 
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fwtexasbj8

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I did not but wish I had! New wires installed and no difference. Now I am stumped so will start back checking the plug gap, plugs (Champion RN12YC) and the point gap. Car starts easy but just does not have any power and won't run smooth.
 

croz

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I had a fuel problem with my 74 TR6.
The car would run ok when the fuel tank was full but when it got down to the last few gallons it would start to miss and eventually die. It would start and run a few seconds and die again. It turned out to be a clogged fuel line. When the tank is full there is extra hydrostatic pressure that helps push the fuel along the hose. As the fuel column drops the pressure is less.
So I actually removed the tank and blew out the line. A great glob of black stuff blew out. Likely many years of dissolved rubber hose. I replaced all the rubber interconnecting hoses along the fuel line and the car perked right up!
Might be worth a look.
Cheers,
Steve
 

pdplot

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Same exact problem I had with my blocked catheter. When the bladder was nearly full, enough pressure was created to push some p#ss (fuel) through the clogged catheter (fuel line) temporarily relieving the pressure and pain. If the fuel pump is ok, blow out all lines from tank to carbs and you'll be ok. If it still runs bad - it's most likely electrical.
 
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