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TR6 TR6 front suspension re-bushing question

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T

tdskip

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Can all of these be pressed out while the car is up on jack stands? Are there any that I should expect to be problematic or require a trip to a machine shop?
 
If that's your thing.
I cleaned everything off and put it back together.
I never yet saw a car that powdercoat made it handle better.
 
one bit of advice - mark the wishbones so you can remember which wishbone is the front and which is the back.

They look a lot a like in the manual pictures.
 
alana said:
I never yet saw a car that powdercoat made it handle better.
Click to expand...

LOL. I struggle with shipwrights disease. If i don't do it now it won't happen for a very long time.... Maybe just POR15...

She is just a driver project....
 
tdskip said:
Probably the right time to sandblast and powder coat everything, right?
Click to expand...

Take it from someone who knows zip about
things auto mechanics. Make yourself a parts board
and label every part, nut and bolt as you take them
off and put them in proper orientation. You will be
real glad you did.

d

powderParts.jpg
 
now thats impressive!!


mark
 
TD...... even though I just did the front a year ago, the brains cells that handled that task are beginning to die! So, if my memory recalls correctly, all the bushings will go onto parts that you have to remove from the car. Tinsters very very cool parts board actually shows you the upper and lower control arms that you'll take off and then press the new bushings into. I did Nylatron which required some lube and a "hammer" to work them in to the tight fit. Stock rubber or poly may be different then Nylatron. Only area of concern, as Alan already mentioned is the upper arm that mounts to the fulcrum pin. I think it's just the back one on each side. If you put the bushings in the arm first, it's impossible (at least for me) to get it back over the fulcrum pin. The way I ended up installing that inner, upper wishbone was to install the outside bushing in to the arm along with the sleeve, then I slide the inside bushing on to the fulcrum pin, positioned the arm against that bushing and tapped it all in to place. Maybe someone has a better way of doing it. And there was no way I was removing the fulcrum pin!
 
The way I ended up installing that inner, upper wishbone was to install the outside bushing in to the arm along with the sleeve, then I slide the inside bushing on to the fulcrum pin, positioned the arm against that bushing and tapped it all in to place. Maybe someone has a better way of doing it. And there was no way I was removing the fulcrum pin!

<span style="color: #990000">Me too Bob, but the fulcrum pin is the key
element. It appears mirror image but it's not. It can go in
the wrong way and really screw things up. </span>


https://www.scribd.com/doc/525500/fulcrumpin1

https://www.scribd.com/doc/331575/TR6-fulcrum-bushings

https://www.scribd.com/doc/331575/TR6-fulcrum-bushings

dale
 
Hey Bob!

Glad you liked my presentation.

As an architect, I know nothing about Triumph
auto mechanics BUT I HAVE stayed at a few Holliday
Inns and I know how to take close up photos for
construction reports.

The Good Lord gave me a decent brain.
The good Folks hereat BCF showed me how to use it.
(I viewed yer photos a few times for advice , I admit!!)

NOW!!! If my bucket of bolts TR6 would just QUIT
BREAKING DOWN every 8 miles or so.

I'd be a happy man!!

dale
 
I ended up using a 4' breaker bar to "adjust" the body around the pin - it flexed just enough (with my little friend's help) to allow me to slide it on and not damage anything.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I never yet saw a car that powdercoat made it handle better.[/QUOTE]

I take it then, that you have yet to visit Bayomon, PR, home of the infamous powder coated Amos.
 
I'm going to appeal as soon as Dale gets it on the road again.

And I want a different attorney this time around........
 
For what its worth, the front upper wishbones are stamped "L" and "R". You may need to scrape thru the crud to find them but it is a big help if you just pulled the parts off (like I did) and forgot how to reassemble the whole mess.
IMG]https://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk199/Tom74tr6/Front%20Suspension/5-14-08001.jpg[/IMG]
 
alana said:
I never yet saw a car that powdercoat made it handle better.
Click to expand...

<span style="color: #CC0000">Alan,

I really must beg to differ with you on this one.
Powder coating makes quite the difference.

The passenger rear wheel/suspension fell off my TR6
at 40 mph driving thru a curve. Real scary !!!!

I then installed all new suspension on both sides and
powder coated all the structural components. I have
now driven 1500 miles on the powder coated suspension
and no wheels have fallen off, the car handles much better
and does not bottom out when I run over bottle caps.

I then rebuilt the front suspension and powder coated it
as well. As a result, the car no longer jumps from lane
to lane on it's own accord.

Summary: Powder Coating makes quite a difference!!!

d</span> :thumbsup:

progDay9.jpg
 
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