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The old girl seems to be leaking a steady stream thru the seal in the timing cover. Is there anything else behind there that needs to be replaced also? I assume that it is not too difficult once the steering rack, radiator etc is pulled. The engine was supposedly rebuilt but since I was not watching who knows what was done. Seems like a new seal in the timing cover should do the trick but any helpful hints out there?
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TR6 TR6 front engine seal leak
- Thread starter erstearns
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hondo402000
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hopefully thats the only thing leaking, you have a timing cover seal, the gasket for the timing cover, pull that off and you have a front metal plate behing the timing gears that has a gasket too. I replaced the timing cover seal thinking that was the problem and when I got the cover off I decided not to pull the timing gears to replace the front plate gasket, too much work, I am going to the boat place this weekend and buy me one of those long oil socks that soak up oil and zip tie it to the frame to catch the oil for now
G
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The aluminum bridge on the bottom front of your block is an area that often is the cause of leaks. I replaced mine with a steel bridge (you will have to Google to find the guy that makes it, I have forgotten. perhaps a forum member will remember) and sealed it with Hylomar. That said, Permatex Aviation, to me, works better on a stamped seal such as the timing cover.
RobT
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Here's the link for the steel sealing block:
https://imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm
But be warned - to replace the stock aluminium block, you need to remove the timing chain, cogs, front engine plate, and drop the sump. And while the sump is out, you may want to do the rear thrust washer. Also a new timing chain tensioner (and check the timing chain itself) is a good idea. And be sure to mark the position of the cam to the crank so you get the valve timing right when putting it all back together. Can turn out to be quite a bit of work.
Did all this on mine last year (with the engine installed) after deciding to recore the radiatior.
But at the end of it all - much to my suprise - NO OIL LEAKS (from the front of the engine anyway - the rear seal is for another day).
Rob.
https://imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm
But be warned - to replace the stock aluminium block, you need to remove the timing chain, cogs, front engine plate, and drop the sump. And while the sump is out, you may want to do the rear thrust washer. Also a new timing chain tensioner (and check the timing chain itself) is a good idea. And be sure to mark the position of the cam to the crank so you get the valve timing right when putting it all back together. Can turn out to be quite a bit of work.
Did all this on mine last year (with the engine installed) after deciding to recore the radiatior.
But at the end of it all - much to my suprise - NO OIL LEAKS (from the front of the engine anyway - the rear seal is for another day).
Rob.
G
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I did the same as Rob and replaced all that. Last year I went in and dropped the sump, replaced the thrust washers, rod and main bearings, and a new oil pump. I was very careful to not mangle the gasket that was already in place around the front plate and sealing block. Wouldn't you know it, get it all buttoned up and I had a terrible oil leak around where the front lip of the pan meets the sealing block. So this past fall I ordered that steel replacement block above (definitely worth every penny that) and replaced all the gaskets behind the front plate, the timing cover, and the crank seal. Gave me an excuse to clean all that up and repaint it as well as the water pump and pump housing. Now, incredibly for the first time since owning this car I don't have any leaks from the motor (the gearbox and rear diff are a different story). It's not a huge job but will certainly take a few nights. You don't need to drop the steering rack, just unbolt the mounts so you can slide it around a bit, and as mentioned already be careful with the timing gears and their alignment when putting it all back together. Do yourself a favor, get an extra pair of hands and remove the hood. Worth the extra effort IMO as it makes working on the front of the motor so much easier.
Given the headaches of replacing what is behind the timing cover does it make sense to try replacing just the seal in the cover first? There is nothing leaking around the front of the pan. The oil is definitely coming out thru the seal in the front of the timing cover. I can see it working its way down across the bottom front of the cover.
The timing cover is fairly easy to get off, so yes it does make sense to try it first. Before you do this I would degrease the engine and make sure it is real clean then you can make sure that this is the only leak.
When you take off the pulley, you may discover that the sealing surface is badly worn. The easy way to solve this is to order a speedyseal. this is a thin steel tube which slides over the pulley shaft and forms a new mating surface with the oil seal. You should be able to order them from any good parts shop.
When you take off the pulley, you may discover that the sealing surface is badly worn. The easy way to solve this is to order a speedyseal. this is a thin steel tube which slides over the pulley shaft and forms a new mating surface with the oil seal. You should be able to order them from any good parts shop.
RobT
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70herald said:
I indeed found the sealing surface was scored on my TR. It worked out cheaper to replace the steel part that makes up the sealing surface (these are available from Moss for around $30 as I recall, and slide over the crank, behind the harmonic balancer) than to use a speedyseal.
Rob.
Thanks for the advice. I will make sure that I have either a new part or sleeve so that the mating surface and the seal are new. At least that point will be hopefully eleminated as a leak source. I have looked carefully and think that is the only point, at least from the engine, that is leaking. Once past that on to the tranny and diffy.
D
DougF
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How many miles are on your engine?
Hello Erstearns,
a couple of points in general about installing seals; you do not have to install the seal all the way in, so if there is a groove in the shaft or front pulley, just fit the seal so it runs on a different part of the shaft or front pulley. Fit the shaft or front pulley first (not forgetting to lubricate the seal lip)before tightening the cover. This helps to ensure that the seal is central to the shaft. Of course if there are dowels this won't make any difference but many applications are not fitted with dowels.
Alec
a couple of points in general about installing seals; you do not have to install the seal all the way in, so if there is a groove in the shaft or front pulley, just fit the seal so it runs on a different part of the shaft or front pulley. Fit the shaft or front pulley first (not forgetting to lubricate the seal lip)before tightening the cover. This helps to ensure that the seal is central to the shaft. Of course if there are dowels this won't make any difference but many applications are not fitted with dowels.
Alec