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Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 fender removal help please

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I

ichthos

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Does anyone have any tips on removing a front and rear fender on a TR6? I need to do some welding, and it would be a heck of a lot easier if they were both off the car. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Kevin
 
Its pretty straight forward, just follow the outline of the fenders and remove bolts. Your going to be removing the majority of the interior to get to the bolts, There are 3 bolts inside the tub by the door hinges. that people sometimes forget. The rear fender bolts at the very back are a pain to reach. Easier to do if you have a lift. Not hard to do, will take some time.

Marv
 
7/16" wrench/socket. Some of the bolts are tough to access. Be patient. I sprayed mine with Kroil months before my restoration started. Might have help? I think the bumpers can remain (I took mine off ) if you unbolt them where they attach through the fenders. Take out the interior panels along the trunk, the interior panels along the side of the cockpit. Start unbolting at the bottom and leave the easy bolts at the top for last.
Good Luck
Tim
 
If the TR6 front fender is attached in a similar manner as the TR4A, there are also 4 bolts at the front, 2 fastening the fender to the panel behind the grill, and 2 fastening the fender to the valence. Not hard to remove, just had to discover that they were there.
 
Shouldn't be, unless someone used seam sealer where the fenders overlap the rocker panel. Are you sure you've gotten all the fasteners off? Front fender: three bolts through the A-post into the back of the fender, three spire bolts along the bottom of the dogleg, four folts at the front (on my TR4A there was also a sheet metal screw), and a number of big spire screws along the top edge.
Rear fender: three spire bolts along the rear to join to the valence, one spire bolt at the front into the rocker, three bolts in the wheel well forward into the B-post, and a number of spire bolts along the top edge.
 
There is no sealer used to hold the fender.
 
Thanks guys. I won't be home for a couple of days, but plan on starting with the front fender. Just a little welding in the headlight section. The rear fender has an older repair job with a shallow dent about a foot long. Instead of reshaping the metal, he just drilled holes, put a hunk of steel wool behind it, and then pressed bondo through. I am shocked it didn't act like a sponge and rot the whole area. I have got to weld the holes shut and reshape the metal.
 
If you have the headlight bucket removed you will see a strap attached to the fender with a nut attachment. That has to be removed.
 
Buy a gear wrench!!!! for the bolts in the pillar. The bolt behind the headlamp is likely rusted solid. Have a hot wrench handy...
MD
 
I'll second the gear wrench, but get a good one with a flex joint at the box end. In the US Home Depot has Husky brand on sale, I'm very pleased with those. Not so happy with Craftsman - the rachets don't catch like they should.
 
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