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Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 engine rebuilt

In fact they charge 70$ an hour.
He quoted for mesuring the six cylinders and checking the crank with a dial gauge
 
Looks like a fun project,

well my 2 cents worth,
thats a lot of work to pull an engine, and to put it back together with used parts and have to pull it out again in a couple of years to redo something is a lot of wasted energy

SO
I would make a list of everything you would want to do including pricing
then go thru the list and mark off things you can live with out

At a minimum I would take the crankshaft to the machinist and have it gone over professionally, have it polished and balanced and straightened ( lightening is optional) Nitriding is great but not needed

Take the block and have it hot tanked and get all the crud out of it
have the cylinders checked and honed or bored if it needs it
you already need a new piston so I would do all 6, and oversized are probably the same cost and they come with rings you cannot just put new rings back on the old pistons with out bringing the cylinders back to round. they do oval somewhat over time

New Cam( and check where the cam rides in the block for ovaling, there are no cam bearings and its quite expensive to line bore for the bearings,

new tappets
all new bearings

the rods should be ok
Flywheel have it surfaced
maybe a new clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing
Gasket set

If you need some seals and things PM me I will go thru my stuff
I think I have a front and rear seal, new
I do have a new timing chain too
I think I have the old rods and old pistons if I have not ditched them yet

I spent probably way too much on my rebuild but then I have no kids
and I figured it was one year of college


Hondo
 
When all's well and back in the car, tell your friend to get rid of those cheap crappy air cleaners and put good ones on there and let the engine breath again! Don't know why people put those on their engines and then wonder why it won't rev properly and some get poor gas mileage due to strangling the engine for air. Most lawn mower air cleaners have better flow than those things. Oh well, to each his own. This is what was on my 55 TF when I bought it, they now reside in the junk pile! PJ

Junk air cleaners,


<span style="font-size: 10pt">And your Triumph is even a 6 cyl, not 4, which needs MORE air!</span>

 
I would see if I could find another machine shop near by. To get the block and all the passages clean it really needs to be boiled out and then run the rods through all the passages. Since you have it all a part now after everything is cleaned up make sure you spec everything before you start putting it back together. I heard so many stories of spun bearings after a rebuild all because it wasn't done right the first time. Good luck!
 
here is my parts list:


Shopping Cart - Log In
Qty
Part #
Description
Unit Price
Amount


3-875
INSULATOR GASKET A/R
0.95
$0.95

In Stock
|



1-7030
GASKET-AIR CLEANER TO CARB A/R
0.75
$0.75

In Stock
|



9-858
CLUTCH TOOL-10 SPLINE X 1-1/4
3.95
$3.95

In Stock
|



5-394
BUSHING-ACCELERATOR SHAFT 2REQ
5.95
$5.95

In Stock
|



3-199
FILTER-FUEL
3.95
$3.95

In Stock
|



12-5437
HOSE CLAMP-WIRE TYPE
0.95
$0.95

In Stock
|



12-1359
BOLT A/R
0.95
$0.95

In Stock
|



12-1353
BOLT A/R
1.25
$2.50

In Stock
|



12-3685
SPRING LOCK WASHER A/R
0.35
$3.50

In Stock
|



12-2362
SCREW 5 REQ
1.25
$6.25

In Stock
|



12-2526
SET SCREW-FULL THREAD A/R
0.75
$3.75

In Stock
|



1-371
THRUST WASHER SET-STD
5.95
$5.95

In Stock
|



12-990
COLLAR-VALVE SPRING A/R
5.95
$5.95

In Stock
|



1-349-0
MAIN BEARING SET SIZE STD
34.95
$34.95

In Stock
|



1-348-0
ROD BEARING SET SIZE STD
34.95
$34.95

In Stock
|



5-845
OIL SEAL TIMING COVER
4.95
$4.95

In Stock
|



1-638
GASKET SET-HEAD
24.95
$24.95

In Stock
|



1-614
GASKET SET-LOWER END
16.95
$16.95

In Stock
|



1-3150-0
PISTON SET STD
299.95
$299.95

In Stock
|



3-5730
DIAPHRAGM A/R
2.95
$5.90

In Stock
|

Parts Total: $467.95


I don't know if there's stuff I might have forgotten.

Does anyone knows the piston size aat skirt?
 
just dont order your bearings or pistons till you have measured the crank and bores or till the machine shop give you the dimensions, but again I would highly recommend sending the block and crank out for them to decide what you need to do. new standard pistons in old bores not a good idea

but its your engine

Hondo
 
While the engine is in the machine shop, get the block, head and crank crack checked. On the balance, the machinist will want every rotating thing on the crank, pressure plate to front pulley (except the clutch disk). Balancing is a very good investment.
Bob
 
If you want to see a full engine rebuild at a machine shop, take a look at what was done to mine, starting with this page and follow it down through the other phases. Brosky Engine Rebuilding

This will even show you the boring of the block for the installation of the cam bearings, if you follow the pages down the left side index.
 
You might consider contacting <span style="font-weight: bold">Don Elliott</span>, another forum member and resident of Montreal. Don is not into the 6 cyl TR's, but he is a VERY competent engineer with donkey's years of experience. He may have knowledge of another engine shop.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]how can I flush the oil passages?[/QUOTE]

You really can NOT effectively flush the oil passages from years and years of baked in sludge. You best bet is to have the block acid dip and boiled out after you remove the lead plugs that seal the oil galleys.

As far as the piston question, I do not have that answer readily available. And it could vary depending on whether you had standard or .010", .020" or .030" oversize pistons.
 
thanks for the replies guys. We went back to the machine shop this morning, and we talked with the guy in charge.

He is charging 35$ per hole for oversize 0.0020". so that makes 210$
another 100$ for grinding the crank.
the block doesn't need resurfacing. so it's not that bad really
 
this was saturday.

we cleaned up the block with metal brush and the coolant passages with the pressure hose.
e07dc435.jpg

afd524af.jpg


then we painted some stuff
dd00246e.jpg

f7b1a67c.jpg

f94bd413.jpg


did the floor too
26341a86.jpg

24d74278.jpg

going to shoot gravel guard and we already have brandnew carpets

discoverde a little cancer.
the frame
102ae7c2.jpg

5a30300e.jpg

b43deed7.jpg

and the to be oversized blok
76fe28b1.jpg

by the end of the week some welder is supposed to drop by
 
today after the machine shop we cleaned the frame with the wirebrush, and it was a little worse than we thought:

we dropped the suspension.
7817ef20.jpg

87dc06e6.jpg

77dca73c.jpg

789cf14d.jpg

5b6dce52.jpg
 
Wow, talk about rode hard and put away wet! I'd probably be thinking about a replacement frame about now. Those are obviously fatigue cracks, which probably means that the surrounding metal is close to it's fatigue limit as well.

And I'll bet the rear (which is the notorious weak spot in TR6 frames) is even worse.
 
RFLX said:
He is charging 35$ per hole for oversize 0.0020".

That's a typo, right? AFAIK TR6 pistons jump from standard to .020" oversize.
 
Wish you were near to NC, I could fix you up with a good frame and the rear has been replaced and reinforced.

You could look at a RATCO,

good frames!!


Wayne
 
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