Just some background info:
The most common, and cheapest rings are straight cast iron. They do not have a perfect contact surface, so the cylinder bores must be prepped by honing to a relatively coarse cross hatch finish. This rough finish speeds lapping the face of the rings to achieve a perfect seal. Because of this, cast iron rings have a relatively long break in period...like several thousand miles. A side affect is the rough cross hatching increases the drag between pistons and cylinder. I bet these are the rings you used.
The next step up is moly faced rings. Molybedneum (spelling) rings are pre-lapped in a hardened steel cylinder during manufacture. Because the face is much better prepared, the cylinders should be honed to a mirror smooth finish. Moly rings will break in within a hundred miles of running...and if a break in procedure is used, they break in in a matter of minutes. The side affect of having rings and bores this smooth is there is little friction between the piston and cylinder...so the engine will easily spin by hand after assembly, compared to your build.
Then there are the specialty rings...chrome rings in iron bore, chromed bore with iron rings, nickel plated aluminum bore...and on and on. All the newer designers use a near mirror bore and pre-lapped rings to reduce break in and friction.
Anyway...most guys rebuilding our TR’s are still using the old school iron rings on a rough honed bore...so a lot of friction after the initial build is to be expected. The end result is just as good as modern engine builds, but you will have a longer break in time.