• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Engine Rebuild parts on order

Share this page

hondo402000

hondo402000

Darth Vader
Offline
Well I bit the bullet and since my engine is starting to smoke, I bit the bullet and started ordering parts to rebuild my TR6 engine probably this fall/ winter when the summer driving cools down and I get over the repaint job.

so going for the gusto, 78mm carrillo forged pistons, carrillo rods, all new head parts, valves, double valve springs, new valves, guides, new HD tapets, chrome moly push rods, GP2 Cam,gasket sets, front and rear seals, I need to find that upgraded front sealing block in steel. cam bearings will be installed, head will be skimmed, new clutch while I am in there, well you see where I am headed with this one

Hondo
 
Sounds great Hondo!!! Aluminum flywheel, aluminum flywheel.......
 
Hey Brosky
pondering the flywheel thing for now, got all summer, but what I am looking for is there any other information on rebuilding the TR6 engine besides the bently manual? It looks like it has all the tolerances but lacks a lot for putting the cam in and degreeing it.

Hondo
 
Carrillo makes pistons ?

APT makes the best lifter/tappets, 60 rockwell C rated

Try to get tri metal bearings for the crank, I think BPNW has them in the King brand.

Also if you going to the point you are, get a adjustable vernier cam gear set, that way you can dial the cam timing exactly where you want it, no compromising like with offset keys or multi keyway gears.

I see you are in Charlotte, Carolina Machine Shop is pretty good with crankshafts, they know how to put a good radius on the journals, I use Spartan crank in Spartanburg, they are excellent as well, just drop three cranks off there today.

BPNW as well should have a good price on the Fidanza aluminum flywheel. You will like the aluminum flywheel on that engine, it will help it rev quicker, which that motor needs.

I buuld most of my stuff to 9.5 to 10.0 to 1 on compression ratio, thats the cheapest Hp you'll ever get. Those engine are senstive to block and head decking, so you may have to get shorter pushord to keep the valve geomentry in check, Smith Bros. will make you whatever length you want and they are reasonable.

Have fun, sound like you're already starting to :smile:
 
thanks all, so Hap I know I need to cc the combustion chambers to figure what to take off to get to 9.5 but what generally what do you cut off the head to get there?

Hondo
 
Hondo, I do way more MG stuff than Triumph, so I would gander a guess, and would not trust one if someone gave you one. CCing your head's combustion chambers is not hard, level the head on a bench, then for cheap burette, go to your local drug store and get a feeding tube syringe, ML is the same as CC for this test, fill the combustion chamber up util it is full, most of use a piece of plexiglass a little larger than combustion sealed to thead with a smear of grease. Once you have the combustion chamber volume, you need to know your piston to block deck height, your bore size in inches, yout head gasket bore size, your engine stroke, and then you can use an onlie compression ratio caculator to se what your CR is. Still using the CR caculator install smaller CC numbers to you get where you want your CR to be, then you can fill the combustion chamber with that amount, measure that amount's depth to the head deck with thedepth gauge, and va-la now you know how much the head needs to decked. You can also deck the block to change this as well.

You don't need real expensive measuring tools. Enco sells stuff pretty cheaply, I got bore gauges, depth gauges and such from them very reasonably.
 
The only thing that I will add to Hap's comments are that my machine shop also measured the old compressed head gasket. We knew what the new one measured. Since he bored it out and machined the block for a zero deck clearance, that was the only variable remaining. There are pictures on my site of the entire process under the engine sections. Here is the head section with the cc'ing pictures.

https://www.74tr6.com/machininghead.htm
 
I did a lot of work in the combustion chamber, and then used Richard Good's chart that includes cc's to help determine compression.
 
thanks guys, I did find a CR site and kept experimenting with the numbers, using 78mm(3.07 in) bore should be a few thousands larger for clearance though,stroke 3.74 in I didnt know what a head gasket thickness was compressed so I used .040, Just for grins and giggles I kept fiddleing with the numbers and looks like around 050 shaved, now once I get in to the project I will do all the measuremens but wanted to make an educated guess

Brosky I will check out your site, I saw it before and I knew you would direct me to it

thanks

Hondo
 
On Goodparts site, put cursor on Technical Docs and Links. The window will drop down, click on TR6 Compression Ratio.
 
Brosky said:
The only thing that I will add to Hal's comments are that my machine shop also measured the old compressed head gasket. We knew what the new one measured. Since he bored it out and machined the block for a zero deck clearance, that was the only variable remaining. There are pictures on my site of the entire process under the engine sections. Here is the head section with the cc'ing pictures.

https://www.74tr6.com/machininghead.htm
Click to expand...

Yep, thanks I did forget to mention compressed head gasket thickness.

Hey, who's the Hal fellow ? :smile:
 
Hap Waldrop said:
[
Yep, thanks I did forget to mention compressed head gasket thickness.

Hey, who's the Hal fellow ? :smile:
Click to expand...

New Member :devilgrin:
 
Kas Kastner has written about the 6's.. Being as he spent some time racing them, you might find his books interesting and informative...
 
I do have how to restore book, but I talked to Bob Mason at mason racing engines in RI yesterday, he did Brosky engine, so I get the confidence that he knows what he is doing, and I really dont care to drag the block and head all over charlotte to get machining work done and put it back together, so this fall when I pull the engine its getting shipped to RI to Bob, I am even going to put it on his dyno and let him run it in. Now to mass all the parts needed hopefully he can tweek my 40DCOE Webers too!!

Hondo
 
Back
Top