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TR6 TR6 Elec Prob Continued

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R6MGS

R6MGS

Yoda
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So, I thought I had my TR6 battery drain problem solved(for the seond time) but I was wrong....I last ran it tuesday, and it was fine and fully charged... Now it's completely dead. So I started testing for draw....Hooked up the test light, and started pulling fuses...Did all of the 4 main fuses in the box and none of them stopped the draw. So I am thinking my problem is in a direct circuit.....What should I do next? I know someone had some foglights installed on this car at one time, and I can see the wiring for it directly at the battery...So I am going to trace that first, any other ideas?

Thanks
 
Did you disconnect the anti-run on valve as we discussed?
If so, fine, but if not, don't trust that switch. It caused me a ton of heartache.

Can you follow the leads from the battery to the fog lights? You may find something else tapped off of those leads.
 
You got the nail of the head Paul! The last time me discussed that little bugger of an anti run on switch I tried it and it seamed ok...No draw was present at all when I removed, inspected and reconnected that thing. After I first posted this I went back out and remembering your warning about that switch, disconnected it again. Light went out! Problem solved!(finally) I think it was only getting stuck sometimes, and thats why the car would be fine for weeks and then drain itself overnight all of a sudden.
Anyway thanks for all your help, I'd never have thought about that thing if it wasn't for you.
Now is there any side effects of having this switch disconnected?
 
[ QUOTE ]
little bugger of an anti run on switch......
Now is there any side effects of having this switch disconnected?

[/ QUOTE ]

What's an anti run on switch?

Would that help answer your question?


Bill
 
That's exactly what would happen to me. The good doctor was really clever in the way he hid this one, but we got him!!

None that I can see. It's design was to prevent the car from "running on" after you would shut it down. If the idle is set correctly and all other engine settings are to spec, I don't believe that you would have a problem. I haven't so far, but the real test should be on a very hot day after driving awhile. And hopefully, that will be this weekend!

I'll post if I have a problem. I didn't notice any issues since last fall when we discovered this lovely little descendant of Dr. Lucas, so I don't think that I will after this.
 
Well it was pretty warm here today, and after I disconnected it I put in a fresh battery from the basement and went for a little ride(bout 15 mins)...no run on at all.

I am going to be blocking it up and treating the rear end to a grease job, also gunna inspect the u-joints and the diffy mounts....So wish me luck, it's been many moons since I've gotten this personal with a TR.
 
Hello R6,

I don't see how you can use a test light to check for current.
You need an ammeter in line with your main battery connection. Has disconnecting the alternator been mentioned, as sometimes a faulty diode will draw current when not running?

Alec
 
I didn't think testing with a simple test light was possible either....but someone here told me to remove the postive cable, then put one end of the test light to the positive battery terminal and the other end of the test light to the positive cable....Works great.
 
You did it correctly and it showed the draw.

I drove my car VERY hard today (for 20 miles) after picking up from body shop and shut it down hot and had no problem with the ARO valve being disconnected. Outside temp was 85 degrees at the time. This was with the idle still being at 1500 RPM after the new headers were installed, so if that didn't cause a problem, nothing should.
 
Glad to hear you got your car back...Have Fun, I know you will!....Now mines in the shop /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif.....but I've still got some MG's to fall back on /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
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