TR6 TR6 doesn't start

[poolboy]

there are quite a few position though. three ajustement, hard to find the right on

What's that mean..I don't understand.

 

[TR6BobNF]

Hate to be stating the most basic stuff but have you replaced the rotor button and distributor cap? Sometimes the simplest things can be the problem. I know that was a problem for me in the past.
Good luck,
Bob

 

[LarryK]

Doesn't the cam gear have multiple indexes for timing? One side of gear advances timing the other is retarded and there is a common mark on both sides for TDC. Not a hard check if all else fails. I had this problem on a GT6 and the cam gear was indexed wrong. Took timing cover of and reset ran for another 60,000 miles before I sold it.

 

[RFLX]

What's that mean..I don't understand.

I meant that there is alot of ways to ajust the timing

 

[RFLX]

Doesn't the cam gear have multiple indexes for timing? One side of gear advances timing the other is retarded and there is a common mark on both sides for TDC. Not a hard check if all else fails. I had this problem on a GT6 and the cam gear was indexed wrong. Took timing cover of and reset ran for another 60,000 miles before I sold it.

tell memore about these mark, havn't found any on the distributor.

 

[poolboy]

What's that mean..I don't understand.

I meant that there is alot of ways to ajust the timing

The conventional way to adjust the ignition timing is to loosen the clamp around the distributor and rotate the distributor. Clockwise advances the timing Counterclockwise retards it.

You seem to be avoiding the issue of rotating the distributor a bit in each direction while your buddy engages the starter..

 

[RFLX]

no, we tried it also, quite a bit in fact.

 

[Geo Hahn]

Been following this awhile, but when I first read this...

...gas pump, wasn't put back correctly, then we made sure it was spurting petrol, ingntion, distributor was 180 degrees off, put it back correctly...

... I suspected something else basic was done wrong during reassembly.

Possibly the simplest error would be one that moves the timing off by 180° -- this would leave you with fuel and spark yet no chance of hitting the correct timing by rotating the distributor a reasonable amount. One way this could occur is if #1 TDC was mis-read as being a compression stroke when in fact it was an exhaust stroke.

I would re-check the basics to see if #1 ignition corresponds with a compression stroke.

 

[TR3driver]

I don't see any mention of valve lash ... have you re-checked that?

From the discussion, I think I'd go even farther back on basics. Start by double-checking that the TDC mark on the front pulley does, in fact, match when #1 is at TDC. Preferably by using a piston stop, but a straw or wood pencil down the #1 plug hole will do.

Now turn until #1 is at TDC on compression (both valves closed) and check to see that both valves on #6 are open by the same amount.

If that is good, then without moving the engine, verify that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire, and static time the distributor so the points have just opened. Install and torque the plugs, then go around the distributor cap and make sure each plug wire is in the right place. (I know, you didn't change that, but you'd be surprised how often it turns out to be something simple that "wasn't changed".)

Now, disconnect the harness wire from the "+" terminal on the coil, and run a temporary jumper to it from the battery hot terminal. Give a good, healthy dose of jet spray carb cleaner down each carb throat and immediately crank the engine.

If it starts and dies (even just one or two firings that propel the engine forward), you've got a fuel delivery problem. If it won't fire at all, I would first check compression, then look some more at the ignition. For example, a bad condenser can limit spark voltage such that the plugs will appear to fire outside the engine, but not make it under compression. So try another condenser and rotor, JIC.

 

[RFLX]

the wires are in the right order, that was doublechecked.

I don't understand when you say "Now, disconnect the harness wire from the "+" terminal on the coil, and run a temporary jumper to it from the battery hot terminal. " why? and which terminal would it be?

From time to time I would put gaz in the carb with a old tranny oil bottle.

To verify if I am at TDC, I have an old compression gauge cable with no valve, a simple tube that I blow in, if it holds pressure thanthe vales are closed, if not than I am at the wrong tdc.

I will definitly check into that next time I work on the car

 

[TR3driver]

I don't understand when you say "Now, disconnect the harness wire from the "+" terminal on the coil, and run a temporary jumper to it from the battery hot terminal. " why? and which terminal would it be?

The reason is because there may be some problem with the ignition circuit. Bypassing the ignition switch, ballast resistor, etc. is a simple way to ensure that they are not the problem. It's only a test.

I'm afraid I don't understand your question about which terminal. I'm talking about a jumper from the "+" terminal on the battery (the one that is not grounded to the engine and/or body), to the "+" terminal on the coil (the one that does not connect to the distributor/points).

To verify if I am at TDC, I have an old compression gauge cable with no valve, a simple tube that I blow in, if it holds pressure thanthe vales are closed, if not than I am at the wrong tdc.

But that will only tell you if the valves are closed. I am talking about really finding the reference point where the piston is exactly at the top of the stroke. The point being that anything else you might look at (the valves, the timing mark on the front pulley, etc) may NOT be accurate.

It is actually a fairly common problem with the TR6 motor for the timing mark on the front pulley to be out of place. And since your engine has never run since it was assembled, I would be looking for a definite confirmation that the camshaft was timed to the crankshaft correctly. Even one tooth off can create an engine that is very hard to start and will not run properly. And the old marks are not always accurate (plus anyone can make a mistake).

 

[Geo Hahn]

This is the piston stop I made (from an old spark plug) to determine TDC irrespective of pulley marks:

Though as Randall notes you can at least get a feel for whether indicated TDC is close to actual by inserting something harmless in the plug hole.

 

[LarryK]

I was mentioning the timing chain cam gear with the reversable gear plate with retard marks on one side and advance on the other. If you look at timing chain cam gear by holding it on edge you can see the difference in the marks to the center hole. Just an idea as I've seen shops slam them on wrong.

 

[RFLX]

I am quite certain about the timing chain because of a couple of things I remember doing while getting through the timing,

1 - cam gear, behind it there were mark of the oil passages so it is back the way it was

2 - the crankshaft gear, it is on woodruff key.

3 - I remember trying the chain one tooth before and one tooth after the exact point of the timing marks to sure I wasn't wrong.

I will definitly look in a way to see if the timing mark on the cover is accurate, I guess a screwdriver through the spark plug hoe would be close enough

 

[RFLX]

It works! Distributor issue

 

[poolboy]

It works! Distributor issue

Congratulations but that's not good enough..how about a few more details ?

 

[DNK]

Ground wire?

 

[startech47]

Wire stack up on the points?

 

[Healey_Z]

Ok, i'll guess; condenser

 

[Brosky]

I'll bet it was the wire stack up.....grounded out