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TR6 TR6 Does not turn over.

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The more I look, the more I think I need number 16 from the Victoria British parts page: The entire lock mechanism. I have already replaced only the wiring harness that plugs into the back of the ignition; but, evidently, there was more to my problem. I will be posting pictures of my ignition, the best I can, from the car. My car is a '74, by the way, and I suppose I had hoped that the component part I needed was somehow interchangeable. If I buy new, I could be stuck with the $250 price range, unless I am able to find something used. Also, I am not relishing replacing the ignition in total. Kind of looks like a pain, but with guidance, I will tackle it. I am not posting the pictures now, as the time here is 4:16 a.m. Also, my computer is giving me fits. That's another story....and another challenge. Lastly, but not least, Aloha and thanks...........
 
Maybe I overlooked your reply to the R/w, R/o wires situation..Even a new ignition switch will not overcome that problem.
 
From the way back machine. Perhaps this will help.....

https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?25777-74-TR6-ignition-switch-fun&highlight=Mrv8q

Well, that was no help..... Here's an inside shot.
IMG_0646.jpg


I'll see if I can dig up a better shot...

Those OOF bolts are hex bolts, to replace the anti-theft bolts there originally...
 
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2wrench,

Still not sure what your problem really is, but the second ebay auction there will provide you with an ignition switch, steering locking mechanism, and a lock barrel suitable for a '74 (good for hours of amusement). I dug my old setup out for the pix. The switch did not work at all so I removed the tiny screw at the bottom (Replaced with the larger one you see). Then I bent the metal tabs out to remove the ceramic back. The contacts were green with corrosion so I cleaned and used dielectric grease. WARNING - there is a ball-bearing and spring set-up that provides the position stops and starter return functions. Disassemble carefully and keep them in the same orientation when reassembling. I used 2-part plastic epoxy to keep it securely together. It looked bad, but it worked for a few years before I bought a really nice one (with keys) on eBay.

The switch pulls straight back as seen in the second picture. This switch has the wiring harness attached and ends in a 5-pin plug. The pins & sockets must be clean to pass 12-volt power for the Start and Run functions. The tab at the back end of the barrel fits in and turns a plastic contact plate in the switch. I didn't remove the lock barrel, but I think if you somehow get the two tiny roll pins out (I circled one), you could remove the lock barrel. Hopefully someone has done this and can describe - or you can be the first...good luck! Once you get the barrel out, there should be a code you give to one of the vendors and have a key cut.

All this may be moot if your problem turns out to be the starter relay (by the fusebox) or associated wiring. Did you jumper the wires Poolboy described?

Jeff
74.5 & 75 TR6
 

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I have ordered the second part on E-bay. I will verify the "wire jump" to bypass the seat belt warning. The part should be here early to mid next week. My understanding is that the seatbelt warning has already been bypassed; but I will double-check this. I do not see the two tiny roll pins you describe, but I am very interested in learning how to remove that lock barrel. I am wondering if the lock barrel I received for the '69 is still interchangeable with my lock, as has been described previously in the thread.
 
Received my used ignition via E-bay. Had a key made. Snafu installing as follows: Cylinder that works the steering column fell out of the ignition onto the floorboard. Now I cannot get the thing to seat back into its position. It looks like this: photo.jpgNow using my old part, it should look like this: Old unit.jpg Anybody know what I must do to get this cylinder to seat down into the ignition as it should? Hope I'm clear.
 
poolboy said:
Yes if nothing happens when you use the key to try the starter, then the 74 year only, seat belt warning need to be overidden.
Look in the upper passenger foot well. There is a big round plastic plug with 12 wires that is plugged into a buzzer box. Connect the White/orange to the White/red wire. Then see if the starter works
Click to expand...
Okay. So I am finally here. I have ordered the used ignition on line; made a key; installed the part. Got past ignition coming apart. (Enough said for brevity.) Next, and hopefully finally, I will be "jumping," the red/white and white/orange wires as suggested to properly bypass the seat belt module. So must I connect these wires and leave them hanging outside of the round plastic plug? Should I try to reinsert them into the plug after I have joined them? (As an aside, I am back to square one; i.e., car starts sometimes....and then....sometimes not.
 
What I did was make a solid wire jumper from terminal 11 to terminal 12 in the plug and did not reinsert the plug back into the buzzer. In fact you can remove the buzzer once you've done that and and tuck the plug away so it won't be dangling..That's how I dealt with it.
BTW, I never gave this a second chance..When the starter failed to respond the very first time, I did as I described and the problem never reoccurred.
So who's to say that's your problem, but making a jumper would be a good test.

See TRopic6 post and picture on PAGE 1
 
I encountered the same problem of intermittent starting too when I restored my 6. I removed the rivets on the interlock case and soldered a jumper between contacts 11 and 12 directly on the circuit board. Now my car starts every time, but I still have the buzzer to remind to to wear my seat belt and when I leave the key in the ignition.
 
I just joined so am late to the party. Had the same experience with my '74 TR6 - sometimes would start OK, sometimes nobody home.

Solution, in my case, was that one of the very small diameter wires inside the starter relay that is part of the magnetic coil was not, or was intermittently, making contact to the soldered connection at the base. Couple of minutes with the soldering iron solved the problem and saved me about $40.

Good luck
 
Dredging up an old thread. I was just attempting to diagnose a starting problem on the 74 TR6 of an acquaintance. The starter relay clicks, but nothing else. I was just reading this thread and came across the discussion about the seat belt module. Will the relay click if there is a problem with the seatbelt module? Just trying to rule things in or out. Thanks for letting a Healey guy butt in!
 
Hugh - you should probably start a new topic, as this one is *way* long.

But, if the seat belt circuit is designed to prevent starting, then you should *not* hear a click from the starter solenoid.

I'd bet most "click but no turnover" problems are related to: low battery voltage, bad ground wire, or dying/corroded solenoid.

Tom M.
 
Also late to this topic. I have a '74 and I simply got a TR4 dash piece for the controls that has 5 holes and put a TR4 style ignition switch in there. It is from an early 6. I don't have the column lock anymore and more room as a plus. This just 'bolted' right in, no mods.

Perry
 
To rule out wiring and low battery issues, use a remote starter sw direct to starter. Quickest way, put a screwdriver blade from soleniod tab to starter post. That will tell about starter codition.

marv
 
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