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TR6 TR6 Dash

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saltshaker

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I am starting a restoration of a 72 TR6. What is different members opinion of the wood to use for a new dash. Teak wood, Burl wood, Mahongy, or veneer?
This will not be a stock restoration because the car already has 3 Weber Carb set up. Plus I am going to paint it a Mustang Maroon with tan leather interior. It will be my driver.
Suggestions please!!
 
The general consensus is to use plywood with a veneer finish. This is to prevent cracking, which will happen with solid wood dashes. The originals were made this way as well as the Jag's and Healey's.

If your plywood base isn't all warped and distorted, you can skim off the top with a planer and install a new veneer finish that can be anything that you want it to be. Then you can refinish it either shiny or matte with UV protective varnish.

And welcome to the Forum.
 
Cherry veneer mounted to the original dash after removing the original veneer.
P1010010.jpg

P1010009-1.jpg

This is with a Tung Oil finish.
 
I read somewhere that not any old plywood will do: something about each sheet of ply having the grain perpendicular to the grain of the sheet below? Which prevents warping?

I was fortunate with mine: once I removed the top layer of cracked varnish (or whatever it is), the veneer underneath was still quite decent: I sanded it with 400 grit very carefully, stained it with some red mahogany stain, and then applied several coats of clear polyurethane gloss. Not an authentic look, but pleasing to my eye :smile:
 
Yes, but not a very good one:

2390131163_ea615114b3.jpg


I prefer Norton47's ... but a little beyond my skill level :smile:
 
I say use the original as a base for a new one. It is easier to cut the holes .I just stripped the old finish off and sanded it real well before installing new veneer.
Here is the Dash Redo

DSCF2094.jpg
 
That's a fine looking veneer job, and the wood is not too far from original. The wood veneer in these Triumphs is a huge focal point of the car's overall look, I think.

Nice craftmanship, job well-done! :thumbsup:
 
Just a comment - if veneering, remember to veneer both sides of the dash to prevent warping.
 
It was veneered for 38 years already, do you still think it needs both sides :jester:
 
both my first TR (a 4A) and the 250 were veneered on the front surface while the edges and back were painted or coated with a brown paint. This paint I believe was to seal those surfaces.
 
if you look a my pictorial ,first photo shows paint on the back. Always a good idea.
 
Angelfj
I did use a vacuum press. That second link in my post is to the type of press I used. They make a kit for doing skateboards and our dashes will fit the big kit bag. Comes with a hand pump.
I tried using lead bricks the first time around and was not happy with the results as the wood I used for platens was not even enough, I think. The second time I just went the vacuum way and it worked like a trick.
I also used a product to soften the veneer and make it more pliable. This I feel help ensure that it pressed down evenly.
 
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