TR6 TR6 Dash Support won't go in

[Coyote1]

I've been trying to get the dash support in place after a restore. My problem is that it won't go down low enough to get it under the control knobs. I removed the sound/heat insulation from under it and still cannot get the legs to the floor board. I need to get it down about 1/2 inch in order to get screw/bolt holes to line up. It feels tight against the new fiberglass tunnel and I suspect that may be the problem.
Any ideas? Sympathy? ???

Larry

 

[DNK]

Shorten the support.
Check with Paul and Bobby, they had idesa
https://www.74tr6.com/
https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/index.htm

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Sounds like the trans fiberglass cover is too tall. To make sure remove the trans cover and see if the dash support will fit okay. Is the trans cover black poly or glass. If poly it should bend down enough but you will have to force it in pretty hard.

Later thought - I have used long bolts on the legs and pulled the dash support down into place.

Marv

 

[mallard]

Did you replace the floor pans? If so you may have to push them up. Marv's idea of longer bolts to pull it up sounds good if you go slow.

 

[JerryVV]

It sounds like you need an additional 1/2 inch overall to fit the support. My guess is that you really don't need that much but it just looks like you do. They are a tight fit between the dash and the floor.
I have in the past placed a jack between the floor and the dash to gain some room. Never for a 1/2" however and if you have the wooden dash installed be very careful jacking and at the very least lossen all of the screws holding the wooden dash to the metal dash behind it and remove the speedo and tach. I'd take some actual measurements of the support upper holes to base and then the same measurement on the car. Also when installing the support you should place the upper portion below the dash and then rotate the bottom into place. It will be tight as it rotates into place.

 

[61tr3]

I had a similar problem, I used a floor jack on the passenger side. I set plywood down on the floor pan and used a 2X2 on the jack to lift the dash the 1/2" to get the support in place. I did this with the wood dash not screwd to the metal frame that holds the wood.

 

[davidk]

Never needed a 1/2 inch, but I've always had to sit on the tranny tunnel and wedge my legs between the floorboards and dash and push up with my knees. Doesn't sound to glamorous, but it works.

 

[tdskip]

Doesn't sound to glamorous, but it works.

That covered a lot of ground with our cars...

 

[vettedog72]

That space seems to shrink while the brace is out. If the brace has been in for a few years you can take it out and replace it easily but if it is out for much time (three to six months or more) it will be a real task to get it back in; even with the carpet cut out or insulation cut out so metal to metal contact can be made at the floor. Jacking the dash up and/or pushing the floor down seems to be what is needed but it is difficult to jack as you no doubt can see. I have some clamps that also work in reverse and plan to try one on each side of the dash. I dont think the real solution is to grind off a little of the bottom of the support but I am tempted.

 

[Coyote1]

I pulled the carpet back and tried to fit it again. The fiberglass tunnel kept the base from contacting the floor and it will not flex. The best fix I could come up with was to use an extra support I had (padding removed). I marked the spots it contacted the tunnel and ground them down until I could finally fit it in. I'll paint it with wrinkle paint and use it instead of the padded support.
As several have mentioned, time takes a toll. The support and tunnel were out of the vehicle for ten years.