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TR6 TR6 Clutch

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tr6web

tr6web

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I've torn out the entire interior to redo and man did it need it. Never knew how much rust was under my carpet! Now freshly sanded and painted they look new! Anyway, since I have everything out including the trans and driveshaft covers off, it is easier to change the clutch out now? I've never changed one, so this I'm sure is a loaded question. Also, what other kinds of maintenance should I do while I'm in here? I did degrease the entire trans and wow, what a difference! Also adjusted the gearshift. Any advice would be appreciated. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
If you do the clutch you might want to acquaint yourself with the dreaded 'broken clutch fork pin' as the repairs for this problem can also be effective preventive maintenance before it fails. An archives search &/or a Google should turn up details.
 
To get to the clutch, you have to take the tranny tunnel off, and some of the interior out like you've already done. The transmission has to come up through the interior, since you can't really jack the car up high enough to get it out through the bottom unless you have a grease pit. If the clutch need work (Check the throwout bearing!!), do it now, it'll be easier.
 
If you do the job now, save some labor to get back in there. Do you need a new clutch?? Parts for all of it with new fork pin run about $130, give or take $20. Things to check before you order, Rear Mount, if it's a bit mushy, get a new one, check the U-joint, and if you are going to do the dirty make sure you spend the money on a clutch alignment tool. Wayne
 
As a newbie to this, is it possible to give me some pointers on changing the clutch (I think it needs a new one)? How about the trans, gaskets, etc. In addition, how do I know if the u-joint is good. I've inspected it, and it looks ok, but not sure what to check. I have the books, but simpler explainations are better,expecially from you guys! Thanks!
 
Mike, to check the u-joint, put a screwdriver in the space between the flange and ply on each cap with a bit of force, you will have to rotate the wheels to get at all four, if you get movement in any of the caps, it's bad, they generally go bad in one cap first, ergo, check all four. A couple of things the books don't tell you are: get the rear mount out of there, save a bunch of knuckles, jack the engine up to were there is just a little clearance at the top of the tunnel, easier to get a straight shot with the ability to move the tranny up and down while trying to get the splines to slip through the clutch disk ( spray some WD40 on them before you start putting it back in). When you start out with the tranny you will have to roll it and pick up at the same time to get it from under the dash in the passenger seat side, if you take out the seat and floor carpet it will help and save the grease from going all over everything. Use your alignment tool a lot as you tighten up the pressure plate, keeping a good pressure on the tool, this will really show up when you try and put the tranny back. If you can get someone under the car to push up on the tranny, just taking any bind off the main shaft. If the top two studs come out, put them back ( with out nuts of course )helps with your alignment. You should use real good jack stands, four, you don't want to try this with the car on a sloop and make sure the battery is disconnected. Follow the book on starter and clutch hydraulics. Wayne
 
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