TR6 TR6 clutch problems

[JKent]

When stopped on a slight incline, transmission in neutral, the clutch will not disengage, and the transmission cannot be put into any gear. Pedal feel is nil. Driving uphill the clutch works fine, shifting well, this only occurs at stop signs or traffic lights, facing uphill. When level, or facing downhill, the problem doesn't occur. I've bled the system repeatedly, changed out master and slave cylinders, plus the flex line. I've added an adjustable pushrod to the slave cylinder, and the problem persists. Any ideas?

 

[CuriousGeorge]

What do you mean 'pedal feel is nil'? Does it go to the floor w/out resistance? Very strange indeed...

 

[DNK]

Clutch cable broken

 

[heliguy]

Always plan your routes to go downhill?

 

[TR3driver]

Bad thrust washer?

 

[JKent]

Yes, all the way, no resistance, but only uphill, stopped.

 

[JKent]

Going uphill works just fine. Shifts gears all day long without a hiccup, until we have to stop. Then the engine has to be shut off, the car put in first gear, and restarted. Very awkward

 

[TR3driver]

Have you tried pumping up the pedal after parking uphill?

 

[Gliderman8]

Could you be low on clutch fluid?

 

[Minesweeper]

Yes, all the way, no resistance, but only uphill, stopped.

Would you describe the lack of resistance as (1) no hydraulic pressure or (2) no mechanical resistance (i.e., there is hydraulic pressure, but the throw-out bearing isn't contacting anything). Might be worth trying to replicate this problem with the front wheels on ramps and someone watching the slave cylinder and clutch cross shaft to see what and how much things are moving.

Scott

 

[TRopic6]

In the master cylinder there's a small spring-loaded seal that closes off the reservoir when the piston is pushed. Could it somehow stay open when angled uphill? That could allow the fluid to squirt into the reservior instead of putting pressure to the SC. Maybe you could watch as you push the pedal to see if the fluid level in the reservoir rises?

Jeff

 

[tomshobby]

Sounds like there is still air in the system.

Raise the front of your car and bleed the clutch several, a dozen or so, times being certain not to let the fluid get low while doing it. The bleeder is not completely at the top of the slave cyl and air can be trapped because of it, raising the car can help.

 

[JKent]

Hard to say whether it's machanical or hydraulic. I think raising the front end hand having someone else pump the pedal is the way to go. That way I at least know if the linkage parts are actually moving. The fact that it doesn't happen on level ground suggests that a stray bubble of air isn't the culprit. I'm thinking a dial gauge on the crank pulley while pumping the pedal might be informative. I'm away from home at the moment, so having my wife do this solo is unlikely.

 

[Minesweeper]

... I'm thinking a dial gauge on the crank pulley while pumping the pedal might be informative. ...

That's what I was going to suggest next if a hydraulic problem could be ruled out. There is such a small amount of throw required to disengage/engage the clutch that 1/8" of slop could cause a problem.

Good luck! Scott

 

[JKent]

Pulled the oil sump, found the thrust washers sloshing around in the bottom. Probably the root of the clutch problem. Ugh.

 

[tomshobby]

Not great news.

 

[Tinster]

Pulled the oil sump, found the thrust washers sloshing around in the bottom. Probably the root of the clutch problem. Ugh.

Jkent: I feel your pain buddy. Front end float is .020, my crank
"thunks" when I lever it rearward. Oil draining from my engine overnight.
Tomorrow up on jack stands, pull the oil pan and hope for the best.
Best being rear TW worn but still in-place.

Just out of curiosity- what was your oil pressure at highway speed?

Good luck and I hope your crank is not toast.

dale (tinster)