• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR6 TR6 Carbon Canister Relocate?

Share this page

E

erstearns

Jedi Trainee
Offline
Was installing stinless wrapped hoses in the engine compartment, got to the last piece that goes to the top of the canister and realized that the canister when installed is in front of the hole in the new GP radiatir shround.

Commons sense says forget the cold air duct and run as is but when something can be more costly, aggravating and time consuming that is usually the path I take.

Anyone relocated the canister etc.? Where?

In looking at it I assume that the pieces (canister and anti run-on valve) don't necessarily have to be located in the currnet position relative to each other, just have the hoses hooked up right and in close proximity.
 
Tom, did you plug all the inlets, or outlets, and do away with the entire plumbing system?

There was another thread a few weeks back where there was much discussion on the function and green qualites, or lack thereof, of the system but I don't recall a detail on what to do if you scrap the entire thing.

Which hoses did you keep and where do they run to?
 
So that's where the fresh air intake hole would have been if I ordered mine from GoodParts that way!! You are right, there is not much room up there for a hose.
 

Attachments

  • 12493.jpg
    12493.jpg
    62.8 KB · Views: 353
  • 12494.jpg
    12494.jpg
    75.4 KB · Views: 428
Paul, the 4" hole is right where the reflection of your canister is on the side of your aluminum shroud. there is only room for either, no way both.

It looks like it can go on the other side of the rad and relocate the overflow bottle.
 
Like Tom, mine is gone. Sold it to a guy in California. If you have a 73, you can do what I did on my 74. At the cannister you have 3 lines. I disconnected the line from the fuel tank and slid it into the line from the carbs which I also disconnected. Connected to the Carbon Cannister,that is what they do anyway.
Now you have the line from the float chamber vent to deal with. There is no vacuum on this vent except when the Anti Run-on Valve transfers the vacuum at the manifold to the float chambers to stop run-on. That is an instantaneous response when the ignition key is turned off and last only until the oil pressure sending unit detects pressure drop from the engine not running.
I say all that because if you had a run on problem and needed the Anti Run-on Feature, it will come back if you continue. Luckly I didn't have a run-on problem.
If you can continue,remove the line from the float vent nipple. WARNING DO NOT cap these nipples.
Now you can remove the Can and the Anti Run-on Valve. Just cap the nipple on the Intake Manifold that held the line to the Anti Run-on Valve.
Get's rid of some clutter as does eliminating the EGR arrangement.
 
Thanks for letting me know. I'm glad that I didn't order it now.
 
erstearns said:
Tom, did you plug all the inlets, or outlets, and do away with the entire plumbing system?
Click to expand...

I took all that stuff off and am pleased with the result. I see keeping or removing the canister as a toss up either way and it seems to have no effect on the car.

I left the ports for the canister hoses on the carbs open by suggestion of Jeff Palya at Paltech.
 
Tom,

Are they "open" open or just run to a dummy line of sorts? Do you have a picture?
 
I had a Good Parts shroud with cold air box also. I remember using the same charcoal canister bracket and rebending it and mounted off the radiator bracket if I remember right.
P1040074.jpg
 
I still miss seeing your TR6 avatar regularly here....sniff.....
 
I relocated mine, but only slightly. Then again, I'm not using a GoodParts shroud either but a regular old fiber board one instead. So I was able to put the hole for the remote air filter and hose to the ram air box where I wanted them. Don't have any real good pics on the computer. I'll see if I can get one later. Plus, being a '72, the cannister has fewer hoses going to it.
 
Tom, currently I have the line from the valve cover connected to the rear carb on the large fitting on the carb body and the vent from the tank connected to the same fitting on the front carb. I will leave the smaller openings, closest to the airbox, open. I will cap the smaller fitting on the manifold that used to be the inlet, I think, from the cannister. Sound about right?
 
Tom, How did you deal with the vent from the gas tank and the ventillation for the valve cover?
I see you are choking one carb...me too.
 
Hi PB,

I cut the vent line under the center of the car. I have the GP oil seperator installed and it is tee'd into the brake boost vac line.

The second carb does have a choke cable, it is just visible in the first pic. The reason I kept both is that I can raise the rpm slightly with both carbs until the engine fully warms up. Otherwise I would not need both.

I now have more than 10,000 miles on this setup and it has been working out great. Once in a while I do get some fuel oder but I am m not even convinced it comes from the vent line. I had this happen before I made the change also.
 
Gotcha, Tom, thanks. Looking more closely I see the choke cable now. I thought it was a shadow.
 
So Tom, that doesn't cause any type of a vacuum leak? Interesting. I would have thought that would be a problem. Very thought provoking indeed.
 
Back
Top