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TR6 TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
- Thread starter ichthos
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Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
I made it back. Won't have a heater for a while now it looks like. I do not think Jeff converted my carbs, but in all fairness I didn't ask him to. I am going to try correcting the linkage, turning the idle screws, and will report back.
I made it back. Won't have a heater for a while now it looks like. I do not think Jeff converted my carbs, but in all fairness I didn't ask him to. I am going to try correcting the linkage, turning the idle screws, and will report back.
Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
Took it out for a few test drives. I can't see any smoke coming from the exhaust now. I reattached the linkage, got the idle to 900, took it for a test drive, and when I pulled into my driveway, the idle went back up to 1,400. It ran very smoothly. For my second adjustment, I reset everything to 900 rpm again. When I took it for a second test drive, it did not run as smoothly, and when I sat in the driveway and let it idle, it went up and down from 800-1,000 but gradually drops lower and lower and died. I forgot what the part is called, but would that device under the first carb have any effect on all this? I don't know how to tell if it works. Jeff said he wasn't sure if it was working correclty either, but could tell me how to bypass this is it gave me trouble. I have another one of these still on my original carbs - is it worth swapping to see what happens? Also, I have the old rocker assembly on currently. I should have my new rocker parts by next week. Will putting this in have any effect on engine performance?
Took it out for a few test drives. I can't see any smoke coming from the exhaust now. I reattached the linkage, got the idle to 900, took it for a test drive, and when I pulled into my driveway, the idle went back up to 1,400. It ran very smoothly. For my second adjustment, I reset everything to 900 rpm again. When I took it for a second test drive, it did not run as smoothly, and when I sat in the driveway and let it idle, it went up and down from 800-1,000 but gradually drops lower and lower and died. I forgot what the part is called, but would that device under the first carb have any effect on all this? I don't know how to tell if it works. Jeff said he wasn't sure if it was working correclty either, but could tell me how to bypass this is it gave me trouble. I have another one of these still on my original carbs - is it worth swapping to see what happens? Also, I have the old rocker assembly on currently. I should have my new rocker parts by next week. Will putting this in have any effect on engine performance?
poolboy
Yoda
Online
Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
The Vacuum Control Valve device. If it leaks, by sucking in air, it can cause the idle to rise by about 200 rpms.
No you don't need it; in fact even when it's working properly it only affects the engine when it's idling by activating the vacuum retard on the dizzy. I stress "when it's idling".
So do what Jeff said which I assume is capping a nipple or two..
Considering the problems you had with the rockers and the valve lash as a result, it's hard to say if you have other problems related to that event, but right now, I'd see what you can do with the carbs just to keep it running.
Then after you have fresh parts and valve lash adjusted and stable, concentrate on the fine tuning aspect.
The Vacuum Control Valve device. If it leaks, by sucking in air, it can cause the idle to rise by about 200 rpms.
No you don't need it; in fact even when it's working properly it only affects the engine when it's idling by activating the vacuum retard on the dizzy. I stress "when it's idling".
So do what Jeff said which I assume is capping a nipple or two..
Considering the problems you had with the rockers and the valve lash as a result, it's hard to say if you have other problems related to that event, but right now, I'd see what you can do with the carbs just to keep it running.
Then after you have fresh parts and valve lash adjusted and stable, concentrate on the fine tuning aspect.
Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
Based on what you said concerning the vacuum control device, do you think that may possibly explain what I talked about earlier with the idle going up and down? I think I will swap out vacuum control devices now and see what happens. I like your plan, and was kind of thinking the same thing. It is hard to believe such a huge improvement can be made with such small adjustments. My car is at least more driveable now so I won't have to worry when I go somewhere. Thanks for all your help!
Kevin
Based on what you said concerning the vacuum control device, do you think that may possibly explain what I talked about earlier with the idle going up and down? I think I will swap out vacuum control devices now and see what happens. I like your plan, and was kind of thinking the same thing. It is hard to believe such a huge improvement can be made with such small adjustments. My car is at least more driveable now so I won't have to worry when I go somewhere. Thanks for all your help!
Kevin
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
Vacuum retard was a bad idea all along, IMO, but was mandated by the US govt at the time. It wastes fuel, increases heat, and actually increases pollution by today's standards. Later cars even had a device to disable it, when the engine started overheating.
It might not be the problem now, but it's certainly suspect, IMO. If it was not opening, and you had set the idle with it open, then the idle rpm would be way high.
Cap it off, and go on with getting the engine reliable. Later, if you want to have it for originality's sake or whatever, you can hook it up and reset the idle.
Vacuum retard was a bad idea all along, IMO, but was mandated by the US govt at the time. It wastes fuel, increases heat, and actually increases pollution by today's standards. Later cars even had a device to disable it, when the engine started overheating.
It might not be the problem now, but it's certainly suspect, IMO. If it was not opening, and you had set the idle with it open, then the idle rpm would be way high.
Cap it off, and go on with getting the engine reliable. Later, if you want to have it for originality's sake or whatever, you can hook it up and reset the idle.
Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
Sorry, T8nwa - I missed your post some how. I live in Rochester, about an hour south of you. I have the device you are talking about, but have not used it yet. Randall, I may end up doing that just to see if the idle runs better after I swap vacuum control devices. I am not sure what to cap off. Could you please explain specifically what gets plugged and how? Oh, I just went out to the garage and noticed the one of the vacuum lines fell off the vacuum control device. Could this have effeced performance at all?
Kevin
Sorry, T8nwa - I missed your post some how. I live in Rochester, about an hour south of you. I have the device you are talking about, but have not used it yet. Randall, I may end up doing that just to see if the idle runs better after I swap vacuum control devices. I am not sure what to cap off. Could you please explain specifically what gets plugged and how? Oh, I just went out to the garage and noticed the one of the vacuum lines fell off the vacuum control device. Could this have effeced performance at all?
Kevin
poolboy
Yoda
Online
Re: TR6 carb adjustment teacher needed
If you can feel a vacuum on that line when the engine is running, yes, because it's sucking more air into the engine than needed by the carbs.,
Even Triumph gave up on that device after 69. You ought to consider doing that, too. Cap it off on the bottom of the metal tube where it attaches to the "device" .
You can leave the rubber on the metal pipe and put a tight fitting screw in the open end of the rubber section that was connected to the device.
That will plug the vaccum and should help you stabilize the idle speed, with no affect on the performance, powerwise.
If you can feel a vacuum on that line when the engine is running, yes, because it's sucking more air into the engine than needed by the carbs.,
Even Triumph gave up on that device after 69. You ought to consider doing that, too. Cap it off on the bottom of the metal tube where it attaches to the "device" .
You can leave the rubber on the metal pipe and put a tight fitting screw in the open end of the rubber section that was connected to the device.
That will plug the vaccum and should help you stabilize the idle speed, with no affect on the performance, powerwise.
