TR6 TR6 Amp Meter question Electrical guru needed

[hondo402000]

I am in the process of rewiring my 71 TR6, in Dan masters book he suggest running a large wire from the uprated alt directly to the battery positive side. I assume its to take some of the load off the amp meter, Well since I put a new wiring harness in I ran a second brown white 65 strand wire from the alt to the amp meter and a second brown wire from the amp meter to the starter, effectly doubling the carring capacity. I have had the amp meter apart before and inside there is a loop of solid copper wire that goes from one terminal to the other, QUESTION, should I and do I need to double the size of that loop of solid wire inside the amp meter. Looks easy enough to do

and no I am not going to replacing the amp meter with a volt meter

Hondo

 

[TR3driver]

The problem as I see it is that the ammeter only reads to 30 amps. If you are installing a larger alternator, it will cause the ammeter to hit the pin any time it charges more than 30 amps (which is pretty much every time you start the car). I don't like to have gauges that smack the pin, plus in my case the ammeter started sticking (indicating to me that it was also slowly damaging the mechanism).

So, if you are upgrading the alternator, I advocate adding a shunt to the ammeter, to raise it's full scale reading to match (roughly) your alternator's capacity. I used a 60 amp alternator, so a 50% shunt gave me 60 amps full scale. Worked great for 20 years, and I'll be doing the same thing again soon (the project TR3 is still wearing its original generator at the moment, so no need yet).

 

[simpson]

Hondo, Dan Masters talks about modifying the AMP gauge with a shunt like Randall did when adding a stronger alternator, pages 160-161 in his handbook.

 

[TR3driver]

Interesting, I hadn't realized Dan added that.

 

[hondo402000]

I just got the book and read the article, so looks like a shunt it will be

thanks
Hondo