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TR6 TR6 ADJUSTABLE CLUTCH ROD???

bluemiata90

Jedi Trainee
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I just purchased a 1970 TR6 and the clutch seems to engage good, but catches immediately off the floor. I've read several articles about a adjustable clutch rod, sold by several different companies and have gotten missed reviews. Has anyone used one of these rods to allow the clutch to catch higher off the floor. What is the purpose of using these rods?
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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I think that you need to bleed your clutch and check the hydraulics before spending the money on that adjustable rod. It's not all it's cracked up to be and the money is better spent on good working hydraulics.

What I'm really saying is, if everything is working correctly, it's a waste of money. And if it isn't working right, you need to fix the problem correctly and not with a band-aid.
 

TR3driver

Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Also check the pivot pin where the pedal meets the MC pushrod.

The adjustable pushrod is not the solution, because the original design was self-adjusting. The main purpose of the adjustable pushrod is to add some slack to the system, for when people have "upgraded" to throwout bearings that are too stiff.

If it seems that the MC piston is not returning all the way out, it might be that the spring inside the MC is broken. Should also be a spring inside the slave cylinder that keeps just a bit of force on the pushrod.
 
OP
bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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I'll try rebleeding the system. As mentioned earlier, I just purchased this 6 and it does appear that the previous owner replaced the master clutch cylinder, so maybe the installation wasn't completely correct. Thanks for the info.
 

Brosky

Great Pumpkin
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And make sure that the rod is in the "center" position of the clutch cross shaft lever. Three holes, should be in the middle one.
 

poolboy

Yoda
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Bleeding the clutch hydraulics is often reported as a problem. One tip that made sense to me was to not rapidly pump the pedal. That apparently creates hundreds of tiny air bubbles. Better to slowly, push it down.
It might also be worth looking at the position of the bleeder. It will bleed better if it is as straight up as possible so the air bubble will travel up to escape.
Even after all that, you may have to repeat it the next day after all the air has risen in the slave.
 
OP
bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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Is the rod being positioned in the center hole really that important. I did look under the car just briefly and the rod did appear to be located in the top hole position. I will change it, but would it make the clutch engage at floor level.
 

2wrench

Luke Skywalker
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I remember having similar problems once on another vehicle. Problem
was air in the system. System was bled by a mechanic and problem was
resolved.

Recently, I purchased EZ Bleeders to assist in bleeding my hydraulics.
I can endose them. Made bleeding the system....well...EZ.
 

TheSearcherMan

Jedi Trainee
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You can tell if the clutch has air in it. When you push the pedal down, it should be solid, little if any free play. If it has air, it will have free play in the pedal. Also, adjustable push rods are for people who don't understand how the hydraulics work on the TR6, it's self adjusting. Cars like yours also seem to have crankshaft thrush washer issues, I would check that also. You most likely need a new clutch. However, if you don't know what a Triumph clutch is supposed to feel like, you don't know what you are missing.
 
OP
bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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Thanks for all the replies, the information was very helpful. As for knowing what a triumph clutch feels like, they are different, but each model has it's own feel. My TR3s feel totally different from my TR8 and it's been sometime since I owned a TR6, but I must say, I don't remember my last TR6 engaging so close to the floor. I'll try the bleeding and readjustment of the clutch rod and if that doesn't work, I just get used to the low clutch pedal. thanks again
 

rooster

Jedi Trainee
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Hi,

If bleeding wont help, one other thing to look at is the piston in the slave cylinder where the rod pushes against it. This part wears a lot over time. You can get a rebuild kit that has a new one it it. I found that there was a big difference as to where the clutch disengages, when using a new piston.

My car originally came with a home made adjustable rod, but I never had to adjust it.

Cheers
 

rooster

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Also take a look at the condition of the pin that connects the clutch pedal to the connecting rod that goes to the master cylinder. If this is worn there can be quite a bit of play in the pedal and this can have an effect as well. I've had one snap on me due to wear.
 

martx-5

Yoda
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Maybe it's the start of the dreaded clutch fork pin on it's way out. :sick:
 

2wrench

Luke Skywalker
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Seems reasonable to consider purchsing and installing a new clutch slave
cylinder, if you've done the bleeding and whatnot and it's still not feeling
right. Something is not holding hydraulics, seems to me.

For the cost, I'd rather replace the cylinder than to rebuild, but that's
just me. If I were "all that," I'd probably be able to rebuild and have it
work just fine...

Just my two cents, but I ain't no pro.
 

NickMorgan

Jedi Knight
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And while you are at it, replace the flexible hose. If it is old it may be expanding slightly, which will mean that you are not getting the full travel out of your slave cylinder. This problem often gets worse as the car warms up and softens the rubber further.
 
R

RonMacPherson

Guest
Guest
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AND, make sure the clutch slave cylinder w/plate is mounted on the trans side of the bellhousing, closer to the rear of the car...
 
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