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TR4/4A TR4A Water Pump
- Thread starter TR_Jim
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From what I hear the new pumps have problems due to the lack of lube in the sealed bearings. If you can get an old on re-built it might be the trick.....used to be a guy in california but I could be off on that.......What ever you do, torque and locktite the pully nut(dont trust to nylon)
MD(mad dog)
MD(mad dog)
Alan_Myers
Luke Skywalker
Offline
Hi,
The Moss uprated water pump looks like a good deal. I paid more for a similar pump elsewhere (car is not back on the road yet, so I can't report on how well it works, but I've heard nothing but good about the 6-bladed pumps).
The real problem with the original pump is that it cavitates at higher rpms. The 6 curved blades used on the uprated pump should cure that.
I can't tell if the Moss pump is machined on the housing. The biggest problem I've seen with most replacements has been the pulley tends to rub on the housings, sometimes severely. The "uprated" pump I got was very nicely machined externally, so there was no chance of that happening.
Someone was selling those impellors separately, so that you could just update a good pump, if you wish.
There is one thing to watch out for when buying any TR water pump. Ask the vendor about the break-in procedure. The original pumps had a ceramic seal that required dry running to seat the seal initially. The procedure with this type of seal was to just install the pump, but don't fill up the coolant right away. Run the engine for about 1 minute, then shut it off and fill up the coolant. (The pump could also be spun on a bench, before installation, to seat the seal.) This procedure is from the factory service manual.
However, modern pumps have a different type of seal and usually don't require this sort of break-in. So, it's a good idea to ask the vendor, just to be sure.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
The Moss uprated water pump looks like a good deal. I paid more for a similar pump elsewhere (car is not back on the road yet, so I can't report on how well it works, but I've heard nothing but good about the 6-bladed pumps).
The real problem with the original pump is that it cavitates at higher rpms. The 6 curved blades used on the uprated pump should cure that.
I can't tell if the Moss pump is machined on the housing. The biggest problem I've seen with most replacements has been the pulley tends to rub on the housings, sometimes severely. The "uprated" pump I got was very nicely machined externally, so there was no chance of that happening.
Someone was selling those impellors separately, so that you could just update a good pump, if you wish.
There is one thing to watch out for when buying any TR water pump. Ask the vendor about the break-in procedure. The original pumps had a ceramic seal that required dry running to seat the seal initially. The procedure with this type of seal was to just install the pump, but don't fill up the coolant right away. Run the engine for about 1 minute, then shut it off and fill up the coolant. (The pump could also be spun on a bench, before installation, to seat the seal.) This procedure is from the factory service manual.
However, modern pumps have a different type of seal and usually don't require this sort of break-in. So, it's a good idea to ask the vendor, just to be sure.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Geo Hahn
Yoda
Offline
[ QUOTE ]
From what I hear the new pumps have problems due to the lack of lube in the sealed bearings. If you can get an old on re-built it might be the trick...
[/ QUOTE ]
FWIW -- the last pump I bought had a functional grease zerk and took the stock (removable) pulley. Was on eBay from that guy in Idaho that handles TR stuff.
From what I hear the new pumps have problems due to the lack of lube in the sealed bearings. If you can get an old on re-built it might be the trick...
[/ QUOTE ]
FWIW -- the last pump I bought had a functional grease zerk and took the stock (removable) pulley. Was on eBay from that guy in Idaho that handles TR stuff.