• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR4/4A TR4A upper Ball Joint Removal

Share this page

M

MichaelG

Senior Member
Offline
Hi Folks,

My fromt suspension is dissasembledanf the only items attached to the vertical link are the upper ball joint and stub axle.

The space between the link and the ball joint bodly is to large forthe classic ball joint "fork" I have to work.

Tried the tool I purchased...link below , but Im concerned that this will strip/break long before the joint separates

https://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html

Also, Tried a few well place blows with the brass end of the Thor hammer from the logical directions with the link in a vice or my trusty old black & decker workmate.

So what's next? Would a pro use a press, which I don't have....or some other tool...BTW, I tried the ball joint/pitman arm tool from Autozone tool rental program , but the jaws of the tool are to wide.

Any thoughts before I bother my friendly mechanic or machine shop?

Thanks,

MG
 
Use the tool that fits. Put some quality gear oil on the threads, and drive it on as far as it will go (so it has more leverage). Torque the bolt down until you think it's about ready to strip, then hit the jaw a whack with a BFH (steel, not brass). Should pop right off.

An alternate method requires two BFH. Place one on the side of the link where the taper is, then hit the other side with the other BFH. The idea is to distort the taper enough to pop it apart. It actually works without damaging anything, but it takes a great whack, accurately placed.
 
My tool looks much like yours. It came nowhere close to stripping. It was a dream. I'd strongly advise against hammers and pitch forks. I brutalized my front end the first go-around, and can't stoop to do that again.

Your tool, assuming it's substantially what mine is (I bought it for $79 from a mechanics tool shop), popped those ball joints smooth and fast. No stress to the steering lever, vertical link, hub assembly, etc.

Good luck.
 
TR3driver said:
An alternate method requires two BFH. Place one on the side of the link where the taper is, then hit the other side with the other BFH. The idea is to distort the taper enough to pop it apart. It actually works without damaging anything, but it takes a great whack, accurately placed.
Click to expand...

I've been using this method for forty years on all tapered joint fittings. Everytime I've used it the joint has seperated with no damage to any parts. Besides, you always have a couple of hammers laying around.
 
Okay, that design tool is the basic tie rod end remover. Might not be large enough to handle the load of the balljoint.

An other idea to help. Get yourself a can of computer air. Turn it upside down and empty it on the spindle where the balljoint is. Then whack with a hammer.
 
Here are the tie rod and ball joint tools I've found handy:

925IMG_0751-med.JPG
 
Ron MacP said:
An other idea to help. Get yourself a can of computer air. Turn it upside down and empty it on the spindle where the balljoint is. Then whack with a hammer.
Click to expand...

That makes me wanna go all "George Carlin" on ya'll: "*bleep* th *bleep*ing ozone layer! Get th' BFH an' a can of *bleep*ing refrigerant! FIX your *bleep*ing personal problem!"

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif

<seriously> If you can get the tool in the space and apply a good amount of steady 'push' on it then SHOCK it with the hammer, the taper ~should~ come free. Only thing to be aware of is to be sure all force is lined up. I.E. linear pre-load with the tool and linear force with the hammer blow. All on the axis of the taper.</seriously>
 
Dr:

I have new ball joints for Crypty arriving any day now
as part of the replace DPO Pedro's front suspension project.

Are these ball joints going to be yet ANOTHER nightmare
for me? I'm so auto mechanically stupid, I did not
realize a special ball joint tool was required. Where
do I purchase one? Western Auto or Sears?

The coil springs needing a special tool was a no brainer,
even for me. Any other special tools I need to purchase for
the front suspension project?

thanks,

dale
 
Randall pretty much covered it, Dale. Stress the threaded end as much as possible, then a shock delivered to the thing ~should~ see it release with a "SNAP!".


It's ALL a nightmare. Learning to not let it bother you and press on is the real lesson. Kinda like living. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
I vote for the time-tested pickle fork...this is what I've been using since the 60's and this device has never let me down...
 
Back
Top